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Floriculture, 



Monthly Calendar 



OF OPERATIONS 



BY 

Columbine. 



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Book 

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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



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A COAPREHENSIVE GUIDE 



TO 



f^lopicultupe 



AND 



Calendar of Monthly Operations, 




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A Book of Practical Information and Guide to 
the care and cultivation of flowers. 



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PRESS OK D. MASON & CO., 
405 South Clinton Street, Syracuse, N. Y. «'2.->t_, 

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J ( (^P'N the culture of flowers there cannot, by their very nature, be anything solitary or 
-As exclusive. The wind that blows over the cottage porch sweeps over the grounds 
of the nobleman ; and as the rain descends over the just and the unjust, so it conn- 
municates to all gardeners, both rich and poor, an interchange of pleasure and enjoyment, 
and the gardener and the rich man, in developing or enhancing a fruitful flavor or a de- 
lightful scent is in some sort the gardener of everybody else." — Charles Dicknis. 



rcys\ roG^ <cX5^ 



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INTRODUCTION. 



" In all places, and in all seasons. 
Flowers expand their light and soul like wings, 
Teaching us, by most persuasive reasons. 
How akin they are to human things." —Li'ngyi'//ff7u. 

Everybody worthy of a home should strive to make it pleasant and cheerful if true 
happiness would prevail. Nothing will aid in this direction so easily, cheaply and effect- 
ually as flowers. They are a constant, and yet ever changing source of delight, every 
day presenting new leaves, new buds and blossoms and new forms of loveliness to look 
upon and admire. They are fairer than anything else on earth, so bright, so sweet, so 
full of grace and beauty, so linked by association with humanity, and though frail as 
beautiful, we value them, though perishable things, more than gems. Some of the great- 
est charms, and indeed most of the ennobling influences of gardening, consist in the con- 
stant contact and close communion with nature. The care of plants — whether it be the 
stately Palm and marvelous Orchid in a luxurious conservatory, or the common (but good 
old-fashioned) Morning Glory and Scarlet Runner trained to the walls of a lowly thatched 
cottage^ — lead us, with every step, to the study of nature, its laws and conditions as day 
by day growth and development are going on. Such study is full of fascination, quick- 
ening the perceptive organs, brightening our hopes, teaching patience and perseverance, 
and developing the most tender, as well as the most noble sentiments of the human 
heart. 

Those who succeed best with flowers are generally found making a study of their 
habits, noting with care what suits them best ; for it is only by intelligent observation 
that we become familiar with the needs of our plants, and once their nature and require- 
ments are understood, it is a comparatively easy matter to grow them successfully. 

The object of this little volume is to supply in a concise, comprehensive and practical 
manner, sufficient knowledge of the requirements of plants to enable any one to cultivate 
them with pleasure and satisfaction. Appended is a monthly calendar of operations 
which cannot fail to be very useful and assist to a large measure of success in the growing 
of flowers, for it shows at a glance what work is required during each month, with clear 
brief directions for their management. 

Believing that it would be of much value, I have inserted a list of seeds witli time 
required for their germination, which is taken in part from Park's Floral Guide, but hav- 
iug tested them carefully myself, I have made several corrections, and the list here given 
may be implicitly relied upon. Should the perusal of this little volume, and its daily use 
as a convenient reference only half realize my wishes and intentions, 1 shall feel that I 
have not labored in vain, and that I have assisted to some degree in furthering the pro- 
gress of a highly refining and health-giving recreation, and one of the most enjoyable 
employments that any one can follow. 

Syracuse, N. Y. E, RUSTON, (Columbine.) 




Some Practical Hints Upon Floriculture. 

Plants on Arrival by mail or express, will be greatly benefited if the 
roots are laid in lukewarm water for an hour or two before planting. This will 
restore them to their usual vigor and freshness, after which separate each plant, 
and pot, if for indoor culture, or set out in the garden if the season will admit. 
Water thoroughly, and shade for a few days. 

Pots, or Boxes, if they are not new," should be thoroughly washed, or 
cleaned by rubbing off the hard dry soil, which generally adheres to their sides, 
by means of a flat stick, so that the evaporation of moisture will take place freely 
through the pores. This is of more benefit to the health of plants than is gen- 
erally realized by the majority of amateur cultivators. 

Soil suitable for nearly all pot plants, is one combining freshness, rich- 
ness and friableness. This can be secured by turning over the sods of old past- 
ures, and paring off that layer of soil containing innumerable fine, fibrous roots 
which is found just below the green sward. Then go to the woods, and about 
the roots of trees and old stumps, or in the hollows where leaves have drifted, 
you will find beneath the top crust or layer of decayed leaves, a mass of light, 
spongy soil, called leaf-mould, that also contains fibrous roots, and is very rich 
in vegetable matter. This leaf- mould and the turfy soil are put together in 
about equal proportions with a third part composed of ordinary garden soil or 
loam and sharp sand, and all well mixed. \This makes a compost that will an- 
swer admirably for most plants, and it may be easily varied to suit the require- 
ments of such plants as roses, fuchsias and callas. The former like a stiffer soil 
than most kinds, and an increase in the proportion of loam will produce this. 
The fuchsia thrives best in leaf-mold, and nothing seems to suit it quite as well 
as earth from the woods, while the calla, being a sort of semi-aquatic plant, 
would be greatly benefited by the addition of a little black muck from some 
swamp, in place of the loam. By such slight changes, the conditions of soil for 
these plants can be made as near like those under which they grow in their 
native haunts as possible. It is unnecessary, however, to go to the trouble of 
making a special soil for every plant, as might be inferred from some articles 
that have been written upon this subject, and the simple compost, made as 
above, is one in which almost any plant will grow vigorously. It is a good 



plan to get the leaf- mould and turf in the early summer months and put them 
in a pile in alternate layers, adding a little rotten manure between each layer. 
The action of the weather will put the compost in good cpndition by the time 
it is needed in the fall. Leaves and grass from the lawn may be put into a 
heap, alternating the same in layers, with sods, leaf- mould, loam and manure, 
and by spring another fine lot of potting soil will be ready. 

Drainage is a matter of the highest importance in successful floricult- 
ure, and without it, sooner or later the soil will become heavy and sour, causing 
the plants to sicken and often die. Some people do not seem to understand 
the necessity of drainage, and often wonder why the skilled florist places a layer 
of small stones, moss or peat fibre (as the case may be) in the bottom of the 
flower pots. They seem to think that it is only a whim, and assume that if a 
plant is placed in a pot with an abundance of water and a high temperature, all 
the requirements of nature have been complied with, but alas, the very means 
which are taken to secure their object, lead only to disappointment. It should 
be remembered that potted plants are very differently situated from those 
grown in the garden. Of course a potted plant is restricted in the quality and 
quantity of nutrition to that contained in the pot, unless especially administered 
as a soluble fertilizer, and it is obliged to accept whatever is put there, while 
the roots of a plant in the garden can wander about in the soil at will, so to 
speak, picking and choosing what they like best, and rejecting obnoxious mat- 
ter. If potted plants are provided with good drainage, there will then be a 
means for carrying off at least a portion of whatever is applied that may be un- 
congenial, but without it the small hole in the bottom of the pot will become clog- 
ged, and the surplus water will not be able to run off as it should ; this will 
cause the soil to sour sooner or later, the roots to gradually decay, and the 
plants finally perish. The accompanying illustra- 
tion will give a good idea of a properly drained 
plant pot. A layer of broken crockery, oyster 
shells, or something similar form the drainage 
material shown at the bottom. Let this be at least 
a half inch deep and in large pots, an inch or more 
is better. Over this place a thin layer of moss, 
dried grass, or something similar, to prevent the 
soil from washing down and stopping up the cracks 
and it is ready to receive the soil and plant. With Drainage, 

small pots the drainage is not of so much importance, as there will be such a 
steady evaporation all over the surface, and with a hole in the bottom, not a great 
deal of water can be retained. To be on the safe side, however, it is well to use a 
small wad of moss or something of a similar nature. This will give perfect drain- 
age, and with such only can satisfaction in growing fine, healthy plants be ex- 
pected. 




Potting. — This may seem so simple an operation as to require no re- 
marks upon the subject, but when we look about us, it is quite evident that the 
apparent simplicity of potting has been a source of much trouble and loss to 
many persons who grow flowers without their knowledge of the real cause, and 
it is a well known fact that many failures in plant culture are directly the re- 
sult of poor potting. Very often the plants are set too high in the pots, and 
when the required amount of soil is filled in about the roots to cover them 
properly, there is not enough space left between the surface of the soil and the 
rim of the pot to receive sufficient water to moisten the ball of earth all through, 
and consequently the plants suffer for lack of moisture at the roots. If you 
were to examine the roots of a plant so potted, immediately after watering, ten 
chances to one you would find them in nearly as dry a condition as they were 
before, because most of the water applied is wasted, as it runs over the top and 
down the outside of the pot. Where the roots are dry and parched, as they 
must inevitably be when the pots are filled too full of earth, you cannot reason - 
ably expect the plants to do well. Plant roots must have moisture in order to 
produce a satisfactory development, and it should be as evenly all through the 
soil as possible. The proper way of potting, after the necessary drainage ma- 
terial has been provided, is to aim to have the base of the plant a little below 
the rim of the pot, spread the roots out carefully and as naturally as possible, 
and fill in about them with soil, jarring the pot occasionally to settle it. When 
completed, the surface of the soil should be about an inch below the rim, which 
will allow plenty of room for water. If it settles too low sufficient soil may be 
added to bring it to the required height. Always water thoroughly after pot- 
ting, to settle the soil firmly about the roots, and keep well shaded for a few 
days until the plants become accustomed to the change. Growing handsome, 
vigorous- looking plants in small sized pots indicates much skill and knowledge 
of the cultivator. 

Shifting. — The importance of shifting or re-potting should be carefully 
considered, that the plants may not become root-bound, and thus cause a 
severe check in their proper development, from the effects of which it generally 
takes a long time to recover, and even then, for some reason not fully under- 
stood, they do not seem to thrive quite as well as before. Let the shifting be 
done as often as the soil in the pots becomes filled with roots, being careful not 
to injure them. You can readily tell when a plant needs shifting by occasion- 
ally turning it out of the pot and examining the roots. If they form a network 
about the soil next to the pot, more room is required, but if only a few roots are 
seen here and there, it can remain in the same pot a few weeks longer. In 
turning a plant out of a pot, turn the bottom up with the fingers of the left 
hand covering the surface of the soil, and with the right hand holding the bot- 
tom of the pot, give the rim a gentle rap against something, and the ball of earth 
will slip out. Should the ball be hard or encrusted, as is frequently the case, 
beat around it lightly with a flat piece of wood so as to loosen the outer crust 



of earth and matted roots, that water may penetrate freely, and give the roots 
a better chance to start out into the fresh soil. 

Watering. — Water is th€ life and main support of a plant, and one of 
the most important agents of its culture, but when to apply the water is per- 
haps one of the most perplexing points the amateur has to contend with, 
Many plants have been utterly ruined through the indiscreet use of water, and 
some persons mechanically soak their plants daily, regardless of kind or habit, 
while others water several times during the day, giving only a little at a time. 
If the plants have been provided with good drainage (which they should inva- 
riably be), the surplus water will run off, and the mechanical method of watering 
may not injure them materially, especially in hot weather when moisture evap- 
orates so rapidly, but the " little at a time and often " process, is almost certain 
to cause serious trouble, for, by this plan, only the top soil is moistened, leav- 
ing the lower portion and roots comparatively dry, and sooner or later the 
plants suffer for lack of moisture at the roots. There is but one safe method 
to follow in watering most plants, and that is, to wait until the surface of the 
soil looks dry, then water thoroughly, so that the ball of earth is moistened all 
through. The surplus water will run off and the plants will retain just enough 
for their requirements and no more. Plants in small pots will need watering 
oftener than those in larger ones, for there is less soil to hold the moisture and 
they dry out more rapidly. In winter it is a good plan to water such plants as 
need it in the morning, and during the summer, in the afternoon or evening, 
at such time that the direct rays of the sun will not touch the plants while wet. 
Don't be too sympathetic about watering, but watch the habits of your plants 
and they will make their needs known. Water only when they need it, and 
let it be lukewarm if possible. 

Stimulation. — When a plant has recently been set in fresh soil, it will 
not need anything in the line of nourishing food for some time afterward, or 
until its general appearance indicates that most of the nutriment in the soil has 
been exhausted by the plant. So long as a plant thrives well, let it alone, and 
above all things, don't be continually giving your plants this, that and the 
other stimulant because so and so does, and says it will make them " hump 
right along." Very likely it will, but it is only an increased action, or forced 
growth, with loss of flowers, and when the counteraction follows a little later, 
you will find the plants weak and debilitated, and practically worse off than 
had no stimulant been given. When a plant does not seem to be growing as well 
as it ought to, and frequently when flower buds are set (unless the plant be 
diseased), light applications of liquid fertilizer once or twice a week will greatly 
benefit them, acting as food, and inducing a natural healthy growth, or increas- 
ing the size as well as strengthening the color of the blossoms. Liquid fertil- 
izer is easily prepared from well-decayed manure, by leaching in a tub or bar- 
rel. Bore five or six holes in the bottom of the barrel, then set it upon an 
inclined board of same width securely raised a foot or more from the ground 

1 



so that a pail can be placed under to catch the drip. Cut two grooves in the 
upper side of the board shaped like a V, to form a conductor. The teachings 
will be dark and will need diluting to about the color of weak tea before using. 
Should any readers not have the conveniences for preparing the above, perhaps 
they may be so situated as to obtain a quart of manure from some neighboring 
poultry yard. Put this in a muslin bag, and allow it to soak twenty-four hours 
in a pail of water, then remove the bag, and use the liquid, diluted in about 
four times its quantity of clear water, when required. Leaching manure, under 
the most favorable circumstances, is not very pleasant work it must be admit- 
ted, and no doubt there are people who would not undertake the job if their 
plants were suffering for want of a little nourishing food like this, but the real 
lover of flowers does not mind it much. To such, the prepared food for 
flowers is just the thing. It has little or no offensive odor, i§ reliable, effec- 
tive and always ready for use. That put up by J. L. Childs, of Floral Park, 
N Y., and the Boker Fertilizer Co., New York City, has given perfect satis- 
faction, and is particularly adapted for flowers, as it furnishes nutriment upon 
which the plants make a natural and healthful growth. 

Syringing, or spraying the foliage every morning, will greatly benefit 
plants, as it prevents the air from becoming too dry, which is one of the great- 
est drawbacks in growing them satisfactorily in the ordinary living-room. It 
also keeps the leaves clean, which is another and very important point in 
plant culture, for their leaves are practically their lungs, or breathing appa- 
ratus, and if clogged, the plants soon sicken, just as we would if our lungs could 
not perform their duties. The syringing is also refreshing, and produces a soft 
atmosphere, as does a summer shower to vegetation. Let the water used be 
warm or tepid, and be sure that it reaches the under side of the leaves as well 
as the upper, for there is where the red spiders love to dwell, and moisture is 
death to them, while a warm dry atmosphere is their delight. 

Training. — All who really love flowers cannot help admiring a well- 
formed plant, while a tall, scrawny, ill-shaped specimen, almost denuded of foli- 
age, save perhaps a little tuft of leaves at the ends of the branches, will natur- 
ally become a source of annoyance and aggravation A properly-trained and 
well- grown plant, to give the best satisfaction, should present a compact and 
bushy appearance. To secure this it must be brought under control at an 
early age, by pinching out the extreme tip of the shoot. Do this as soon as 
the fourth pair of leaves have grown, and it will induce new branches to start 
below at the axis of each leaf, which can, in turn, be pinched back when they 
have made a few inches growth. Pinching back, however, does not mean that 
huge branches should be taken off, but simply pinch, or cut out the minute 
leaves or center of the branch. By a little care and perseverance in this process 
of pinching, you can obtain all the branches necessary for a beautiful shaped 
plant, and at the same time secure a larger flowering surface. Of course, this 
will somewhat retard the period of flowering, but is it not more satisfactory to 



have a good shaped specimen with scores of blossoms, than a tall, lanky plant 
and only a few flowers ? 

Winter and Summer Flowers. — In preparing plants for either 
winter or summer flowering, one needs to give the matter a little forethought, 
and commence laying out plans early, otherwise they will be late and perhaps 
disappointing. It cannot reasonably be expected that such plants as have 
blossomed all summer, will continue to do so when brought to the window in 
the fall or winter, any more than those furnishing flowers during the winter 
should be expected to go right on blooming if set out of doors in the spring ; 
because their vitality has already been much exhausted, and they need a season 
of rest. This, too, is truly in accordance with nature's law. The trees, for ex- 
ample, cast off" their leaves in the fall and practically rest until spring, during 
which time their roots store up material for another season's growth. Possibl}- 
the plants may afford a few flowers, but they are usually of inferior size and quality, 
and the effort to mature them only exhausts their already reduced strength. 
If the same variety of flowers are wanted for both summer and winter bloom- 
ing, then it is advisable to grow two sets, allowing one to rest during the sum- 
mer and the other in winter, thereby affording ample means for each set to 
recuperate and store up material for another season of buds and blossoms. In 
resting, however, it is not really essential that all the leaves drop off", though 
most of them will probably do so. The aim of the treatment being, to grad- 
ually subject the plants to as nearly a state of rest as is consistent with health, 
in order that they may be in condition for a new and vigorous growth later, 
which is also one essential point in the production of flower-buds, for the flow- 
ers of most plants are produced only upon new growth 

Those plants which have grown and bloomed freely during the summer 
should be allowed to mature their season's growth toward fall, by gradually 
withholding water. They will then be ready for removal to the cellar, or any 
other cool place free from frost, as soon as cold weather approaches, where 
they may remain until spring. During the winter but little water will be re- 
quired, unless the soil dries out rapidly, and then only just enough should be 
given to moisten it all through. It is a good plan to examine the plants reg- 
ularly every two or three weeks, then if any attention be required, it can be 
given to such as may need it, and perhaps be the means of saving some that 
might otherwise perish. Bear in mind the old adage, " A stitch in time saves 
nine," and with a little experience you will find that a few minutes devoted to 
the care of plants at the right time, will save tenfold later. 

Such plants as furnish blossoms during the winter may be planted out in 
some half shaded place, or kept in pots and plunged to the rim in a box of soil 
free from earth worms and other vermin. They will need very little water, if 
plunged as suggested, aside from that received by occasional showers, unless 
there should come a long dry spell, and then, just enough should be given to 
keep the soil from getting dust dry. About the last of July or fore part of 
August is a good time to encourage new growth. Repot in fresh soil, and cut 
back the branches at least two- thirds, then water thoroughly and shade for a 
few days, after which they will be benefited by the morning sunshine up to 
about ten o'clock, but not later, for it is too powerful. All plants may not need 
repotting, or forwarding at the same time, and a little common sense and good 
judgment should be exercised in the matter. 



Propagation of Cuttings. 




There are several methods of propagating plant cuttings, but the most 
simple and easily managed is that known as the " double pot " method. By 
this plan any one may produce as satisfactory results in propagating slips of 
most plants on a small scale, as the more experienced person might do with 
expensive apparatus and upon a large plan. To form the " double pot " you 
will first need a large flower pot. Cork up the hole in the bottom, and put 
into it sufficient sharp sand, such as builders use, to raise the top of a three 
inch pot to the height of the' other when placed in- 
side. Do not cork the small pot, but fill in around 
it with the sand to within a half inch of the top, then 
insert the cuttings and place the whole in a warm 
situation. The small pot in the center should be 
filled with water, which will gradually soak into the 
sand and keep it always moist without disturbing 
the cuttings. Replenish with water as often as may 
be necessary to keep the sand of an even moisture. 
When a larger propagating surface is needed, 
a box twelve by twenty -four inches and about Propagating by Double Pot. 
five inches deep, may be used in place of the large pot; sinking two smali 
pots in the sand about an equal distance apart, through which to supply the water. 
This plan of rooting cuttings is practical, yet inexpensive, and I know from per- 
sonal experience that it may be successfully managed with the majority of 
the soft wooded plants. 

No doubt there are some persons who would rather have a portable pro- 
pagating case to which artificial heat can be applied at will. Such a case may be 
readily constructed in the following manner at a very reasonable cost, and any 
one who can manipulate tools, may save the expense of construction. Assum- 
ing the size of the case to be three by four feet, and two feet high, the first thing 
necessary is a box of this size, without top or bottom. Saw a piece out of the 
side (beginning at the bottom), to form a door, through which to admit air, and 
a lamp for heating. A galvanized tank four inches less in length and breadth 

than the inside measurement of the box, and about 
four inches deep, should form the water tank, and 
that for the sand should be only a half inch less 
than the case. A close-fitting glazed sash should 
be hinged on top, and the case is about completed. 
A lamp properly adjusted beneath the water tank 
will keep the water at an even temperature, warm- 
ing the sand above and giving a soft atmosphere 
Portable Propagating Case. that will be beneficial to the cuttings. Roots will 




10 



generally form in the course of two or three weeks, according to conditions, and 
will be indicated by the swelling of the buds and growth of leaves; then the 
young plants should be carefully removed and potted in good soil. 



Time Required for Germination of Seeds, and Hints 

Upon Sowing 




With fresh seeds, and under the right conditions, they may be expected to 
germinate very near the time stated below. It must be remembered, however, 
that variations in the conditions of atmosphere and soil will cause a correspond- 
ing variation in the time of germination, and if the seedlings should not appear 
exactly on the day expected ample time should be allowed. In planting seeds 
under glass, sow in one bed all germinating about the same time. The proper con- 
ditions for the successful germination of seed, are light, rich soil finely sifted, warm 
moist atmosphere, and even bottom heat. The depth of planting is also very 

important, which, as a general rule, should 
be about twice the diameter of the seed, 
except when very fine, and these should be 
scattered on top of the soil and lightly 
pressed down with a flat piece of wood. 
Hard shelled seeds need soaking a day or 
so before planting to accelerate germi- 
nation. Thus treated, the young plants 
*Hot Bed. appear in a few weeks, but without such 

treatment they often lie dormant many weeks and in some cases months. In sow- 
ing ordinary varieties that germinate readily, shallow boxes two or three inches 
deep, covered with a light of glass, and open seams at the bottom for drainage, will 
answer very nicely, but for very fine seed, like calceolarias, coleus, begonia and 
heliotrope that require careful attention, the saucer method has given perfect satis- 
faction, and as a matter of fact this method of germinating nearly all seeds under 
glass when only a few are wanted, will give the best satisfaction. It is composed of 
simply one flower-pot-saucer placed within another of larger size ; the small 
one containing sharp sand and the other water, with a light of glass over all, as 
directed for the propagation of Rex Begonias in February calendar. A good 
way to supply bottom heat until germination begins, is to place it on the shelf 
of the kitchen range, or register. As soon as the seedlings appear they must 
have plenty of light and be kept near the glass, to prevent a weak, spindling 
growth, and if too crowded, should be transplanted as soon as they are strong 
enough. 

11 



SEEDS GERMINATING IN FROM THREE TO FIVE DAYS. 



A ga latum, 



Lavatera, 



Ammobium, Laya Elegans, 

Atriplex, Leptosyne maritima, 

Celosia pyramidalis, Marigold, 

Centaurea, Mina lobata. 
Chrysanthemum, (annual) Mimulus, 

Cosmea, Salvia, 

Cypress Vine, Sedum, 

Hollyhock, Senecio, 



Sphenogyne, 

Stevia, 

Stock, (ten weeks) 

Trifolium suaveolens. 

Viscaria, 

Virginian Stock, 

Zinnias. 



SEEDS GERMINATING IN FROM FIVE TO SEVEN DAYS. 



Acacia, 
Amaranthus, 
Aster, 

Arabis alpina, 
Brovvallia, 
Beta, 
Bromus, 

Brompton Stock, 
Cannabis, 
Carnation, 

Candytuft (perennial), 
Centaurea, 
Chelone, 

Chrysanthemum indicum 
Clitoria, 
Coleus, 
■ Cineraria, 
Coreopsis lanceolata, 
Crucianella, 
Cuphea, 
Cynoglossumn, 



Daisy, 

Dahlia, 

Eschscholtzia, 

Eupatorium, 

Gillardia, 

Geranium, 

Gypsophila, 

Hablitzia, 

Hedysaruni, 

Helenium, 

Helichrysum, 

Helianthus, 

Hibiscus, 

Iberis gibraltarica, 

Linaria reticulata. 

Lobelia, 

Lychnis, 

Matthiola, 

Malvamoschata, 

Mesembryanthenuim, 

Mignonette, 



Morning Glory, 

Nicotiana, 

Ononis, 

QEnothera, 

Palava, 

Pinks, 

Picotee, 

Rheum, 

Salpiglossis, 

Schizanthus, 

Syciosperma, 

Sweet William, 

Silene schafta, 

Tradescantia, 

Tunica, 

Verbascum, 

Veronica, 

Vittadenia, 

Wallflower, 

Whitlavia. 



SEEDS GERMINATING IN FROM SEVEN TO TEN DAYS. 



Abutilon, 

Achimenes, 

Agrostemma, 

Armeria, 

Antirrhinum, 

Begonia, 

Balsam, 

Calceolaria, 

Canna, 

Capsicum, 

Catananche, 

Campanula (annual), 

Commelina coelestis. 

Duetzia, 



Digitalis, 

Dracocephalum, 

Erianthus, 

Exacum, 

Gaura, 

Gnaphalium, 

Hibiscus syriacus, 

Humulus japonicus, 

Kaulfussia, 

Lobelia, 

Lychnis, 

Morina, 

Pansy. 

Papaver, 



Phacelia, 

Phlox Drummondi, 

Pyrethrum, 

Potentilla, 

Poinsettia, 

Pentstemon, 

Petunia, 

Rudbeckia, 

Rocket, 

Thunbergia, 

Tropaeolum, 

Valeriana, 

Verbenia, 

Zea. 



12 



SEEDS GERMINATING IN FROM TEN TO .TWELVE DAYS. 



Achillea, 

Alyssum saxatile, 

Alonsoa, 

Argemone, 

Artemisia, 

Anchuza, 

Aquilegia, 

Asphodelus, 



Aubrietia, 

Bidens, 

Calandrinia, 

Campanula, 

Calonyction, 

Feverfew, 

Galtonia, 

Geum, 



Gypsophila- miiralis, 

Helianthemum, 

I pom ops is, 

Linaria, 

Michauxia, 

Platycodon, 

Scutellaria, 

Spirea. 



SEEDS GERMINATING IN FROM TWELVE TO FIFTEEN DAYS. 



Aster (perennial), 

Antigonon, 

Anemone sylvestris, 

Campanula Tenorei, 

Callirhoe, 

Chamapeuce, 

Datura, 

Didiscus, 

Gourds and Cucumbers, 



Gazaniopsis, 

Hunnemannia, 

La n tan a, 

Maurandia, 

Mandevillea. 

Myosolis, 

Nierembergia, 

Nicotiana, 

Petunia (double). 



Peas, 

Polemonium, 

Perilla, 

Ricinus, 

Ranunculus, 

Schinus, 

Torenia, 

Thalictrum, 

Vinca, 

Verbena venosa. 



SEEDS GERMINATING IN FROM FIFTEEN TO TWENTY DAYS. 



Agapanthus, 

Anemone, 

Acanthus, 

Armeria maritima, 

Calla, 

Cuphea strigulosa, 

Cuphea roezli. 



Coboea, 

Dictamnus, 

Geranium sanguineum, 

Gloxinia, 

Hemerocallis flava, 

Habrothamnus. 

Heliotrope, 



Impatiens sultana, 
Iris, 

Liatris spicata, 
Primula sisensis, 
Primula veris, 
Rivinia humilis, 
Smilax (Boston), 
Solanum robustum. 



SEEDS GERMINATING IN FROM TWENTY TO FORTY DAYS. 



Adlumia, 
Baptisia australis, 
Berberis vulgaris. 
Convolvulus cupanianus, 
Campanula macrantha. 
Campanula fragilis. 
Campanula nobilis, 
Clematis integrifolia, 



Clematis diversifolia, 
Clianthus, 

Delphinium nudicaule, 
Funkia, 

Gentiana aucaulis, 
Humea elegans, 
Hibiscus speciosus, 
Musa ensete, 



Phlormium, 

Physianthus, 

Phlox (perennial), 

Rhodochiton volubile, 

Tritoma uvaria. 

Yucca, 

Smilax. 



SEEDS GERMINATING IN FROM FORTY DAYS TO ONE YEAR OR MORE. 



Ampelopsis, 
Anthericum, 
Clematis (in variety), 



Dictamnus, 

Iris, 

Lilies, 



Lupinus polyphyllus, 
Musa, 

Tradescantia, 
Viola odorata. 



13 




Insects and Remedies. 

Nearly all plants under cultivation are more or less subject to the attack of 
insects of some sort, and it is well to be prepared for them in advance, for if 
allowed to get a good foot- hold, it will require double the labor to rid them. 
An important point in ridding insect enemies, is the restoration of health 
and vigor in the plants infested. Healthy plants are seldom troubled with in- 
sect pest^, but almost immediately they show signs of debility or unhealthiness, 
we find vermin so numerous, and with such gluttonous appetites, that it would 
seem as though the plants were doomed. Good insecticides, and a little patience 
and perseverance in applj/ing will surely bring success. 

Red Spiders. — These are more destructive than most people are aware 
of They are very small, and upon close examination appear like grains of 
cayenne pepper If the leaves of your plants seem troubled, carefully inspect 
the under side of them, for that is where the spiders generally do the most 
harm. They increase very fast in a dry, hot atmosphere, but moisture is sure 
death, and you can easily rid them by syringing the foliage, both under and 
upper side thoroughly every day, at an hour when the sun does not shine on 
them. Fuchsias and house-rose? seem especially to suit their fancy. 

Aphides. — The green louse, or aphis as it is called, is about the first 
pest amateur florists meet with, and a very destructive animal it is if not check- 
mated soon. The methods generally employed to rid them, is fumigation with 
smoke from tobacco stems, and syringing with tobacco tea, made by steeping 
the stems in water. Both have proven effectual in exterminating the pest, but 
I would give preference to syringing with the tea, because it can be easily diluted 
to any degree and applied to tender plants without injury, while the fumigating 
process is more difficult to regulate, and a little oversight, or neglect while in 
operation, may ruin them. Then, again, some plants are too tender to endure 
the fumes and would perish before enough could be given to kill the aphides. 
For a convenient and easily prepared remedy that can always be kept on hand, 
I have yet to find one that will excel Sulpho-tobacco Soap. It comes in tin 
cans put up i i liie form of a thick paste or soap, already for dissolving in water 
according to directions upon each package, using only such proportions as may 
be required for immediate applications. Florist and seed establishments usually 
keep it in stock, or can be supplied by the Rose Manfg. Co., New York City. 

14 



fiealy Bug. — This is one of the most patience-trying insects we have to 
fight against, and if once allowed to get a foot-hold it is very difficult to destroy 
them. They usually infest the axiles of the leaves, and may be described as a 
cream -colored, mealy spot of an oval shape. The best way to exterminate this 
pest without injuring the plants, is to brush them off with an old tooth brush, 
using soap suds, in which a little soot has been thoroughly dissolved ; then 
sprinkle or syringe with clear water. A floral friend of many years' experience 
gave me the following remedy for this annoying ^est a few years ago, and suc- 
cess can be obtained with it by perseverance. The mixture is composed of a 
tablespoonful of kerosene and a half-teacupful of sour milk beat together until 
the two unite, then mix with a teacupful of water and beat well together. Apply 
with an evaporizer or syringe. Alcohol diluted with five per cent, of water 
will kill the mealy bug if applied frequently for a few weeks. 

Scale, or Shield louse, as it is sometimes called, may be effectually re- 
moved by scraping off the scaly-looking substance with a small knife, being 
careful not to cut or bruise the bark of the plant. Then with a stiff tooth-brush 
carefully scrub the plants using soap-suds. If the work is thoroughly done one 
treatment will generally rid them, but it may be necessary to follow with a sec- 
ond, two or three weeks later, to exterminate a new generation. 

Worms in Soil. — For these, use lime water, made by slacking a piece 
of lime about the size of a teacup, in a pail of water. Stir well and let it settle, 
then give each plant affected, a little of the clear water once or twice a week as 
occasion may require. Bottle for future use any that may be left over. 

ThripS are very annoying insects and seem to be particularly fond of 
chrysanthemums. They are of a dark brown or blackish color, and gather 
about the branches and flower-buds with wonderful rapidity if allowed to remain 
untnolested for a few days. The use of tobacco tea or dust, or sulpho- tobacco 
soap as advised for Aphides will banish them if persistently used. Plants like 
chrysanthemums with a bark covering or tight skin can endure a somewhat 
stronger liquid than those more delicate, thereby affording an opportunity for a 
more hasty removal. 

nildew. — If not too bad, flour of sulphur dusted on the affected parts will 
usually answer. Carbolic soap well diluted in water will also destroy this para- 
site. Sulphide of potash has been tried for mildew on roses, chrysanthemums, 
and other plants of similar nature with success. A quarter of an ounce diluted 
in a gallon of water and thrown on the affected foliage with a fine sprayer works 
satisfactorily. 

Earth Worms. — A piece of fine gauge wire placed in the bottom of 
flower pots will prevent earth worms from getting in through the drainage 
hole. Lime water will drive them out if the pots are placed in a slanting posi- 
tion. 

Snails. — These pests can be readily captured by placing fresh cabbage 
leaves among the plants early in the evening. The snails will collect under- 
neath, and can be gathered in the morning and destroyed. 

After applying insect remedies to the foliage of plants, it is a good plan to 
always wash or syringe with clear, luke-warm water a few hours afterward to 
remove the insects and keep the plants clean and sweet. 

15 



January. 

Seasons come and go without any sharply defined hnes, sothat except in 
the calendar, one hardly notices the end of one and the beginning of another ; 
but a New Year brings with it something that arouses our activity, and stimu- 
lates the mind of even the most utilitarian nature more than any other event. 
In practical gardening this is the most inactive month of the year, and plants 
usually make but little, if any, growth, but should they afford you a few flowers 
it would be principally upon the strength of earlier stored up vitality. Stir the 
soil frequently about the plants ; it allows the free admittance of air to the roots 
and helps to keep the soil in a healthy condition. A little later they will begin 
crrowing, and show flower buds, then light applications of fertilizer will benefit 
them. Remember, that in this dark, cold, open month of the year, it requires 
double the time to make the same growth, than in the spring, and you will not 
be inclined to complain that flowers come slowly. What is known as the Dutch 
bulbs should now be well advanced toward brightening the window during Jan- 
uary, when so few other flowers seem inclined to bloom. The season of winter 
offers opportunities for making wise plans in the arrangement and improvement 
of the future garden. Consider them while you may, for without forethought, 
carefully matured plans, and sufficient preparation, permanent success is never 
obtained in anything. 

Abutilon. The plants will make a rapid growth soon, and begin flower- 
ing. Give liquid fertilizer occasionally, and watch for aphides. Start cuttings 
for summer flowering, unless plenty of last year's stock are wintering in the cel- 
lar. Young plants must be pruned well in order to have them in good form. 

Agaratum should have plenty of root room and water to do well. 
Aphides like it, so be prepared for them, as mentioned under Cinerarias. 

Air. Don't forget that plants require pure oxygen as well as people. It 
should be admitted freely on all mild days, by opening a door or window in an 
adjoining room, so as not to cause a draught. Daily airing for a few minutes 
at a time will be very beneficial, even in cold weather, so long as the plants do 
not get chilled or frost bitten. 

Amaryllis. Those inclined to grow may be repotted in fresh soil. Do 
not pot too deep ; just enough soil to cover the roots with the largest part of 
the bulb above, suits them best. Water sparingly at first until new growth ap- 
pears, then regulate as circumstances require. 

Annuals, such as Agaratum, Lobelia, and Sweet Alyssum, may be 
used effectively later, if started now. Morning Glories have also given fair re- 
sults, but the principal trouble with them, as well as most annuals under glass, is 

the green louse. 

Azaleas will be coming into bloom now, and should be well supplied 
with water. By keeping them in a rather cool temperature, the flowering 
season may be prolonged considerably. 

16 



Beginners generally undertake too much. A single plant if well grown 
and cared for, will afford more pleasure than a whole house full neglected or 
half cared for. If you want to avoid disappointment, begin with a small quantity 
of the staple sorts, and study their habits and requirements well. It is time 
enough to add others as they can be properly attended to. 

Begonias of the flowering variety should now be well advanced, and 
show signs of bloom. They grow best in an east window, with plenty of light, 
but little or no strong sunshine. The Rex varieties must have a moist atmos- 
phere, such as that afforded by a fernery, but when this is not convenient, a bell 
glass placed over each plant will answer admirably. Such as were started 
early and have completed a period of bloom, sh >u'd have the older branches 
trimmed out, and allowed to recuperate by gradi:ally withholding water for a 
few weeks. Then, some of the old soil can be carefully loosened with a pointed 
stick and gently shook out by inverting the pot, at the same time holding the 
plant in place. Supply fresh soil, water sparingly at first, and new growth will 
soon appear, bringing with it another crop of flowers. 

Bulbs. Late started bulbs should now be ready for removal from the 
cellar to the window, to continue the succession of bloom. As the flowers fade 
away on those started early, remove the flower stalks, and such as are desired 
for planting in the garden next fall should be ripened off by gradually with- 
holding water until the leaves begin to turn yellow; them remove to the cellar, 
and if placed upon the ground will keep sufficiently moist for some weeks without 
further attention. My experience in using forced bulbs for fall planting has 
been very satisfactory, and it pays to use them in that way. Of course, one 
cannot expect as perfect or large spikes of bloom from them, as from new bulbs. 
Forced bulbs of H}<'.cinths, Tulips, Lily of the Valley, Narcissus, as well as 
others, are w:;r^'.' : o tor forcing again. 

Bulbs or Tubers, such as the Gladiolus, Caladium, Dahlia, Tuberose, 
etc;, in th; r .vinter storage, should be looked over occasionally to see if in good 
order. 

Callas in their native habitation, grow in mucky, low places in a very 
warm climate, and though not easily injured from over watering, they will not 
do well in a sour mud, such as is sometimes found in undrained pots. Always 
use warm water, and when flower buds appear it may be given quite hot with 
good effect. 

Camelias. Sponge or syringe often, at least twice a week. A tempe- 
rature of fifty degrees is about right. 

Carnations also seem to be a great attraction for red-spider and aphi- 
des ; they should be guarded against as suggested for Cinerarias. Keep the 
plants well tied, and after blooming remove the old stalks. 

Cinerarias should make a steady growth, and need shifting as often as 
the roots fill the pots ; never allow them to become root-bound, nor suffer for 
lack of water. They are subject to attacks of aphides and red- spider. Keep a 

17 



look out for these pests, and use insecticides occasionally to guard against their 
coming, as suggested under " Insects and Remedies." 

Cyclamen are generally dried off after flowering, but I think it better at 
this season to keep them growing slow imtil warm weather, and then plant in 
the garden beneath the shade of large plants for the summer. 

Ferneries. Water moderately as required. Air occasionally, especially 
after watering, but not while any dust is floating about the room. 

Floral Requisite Box. A handy device for holding floral requisites, 
is a small box about twelve inches wide and twenty inches long. The handle 
can be made out of a wooden barrel hoop, previously soaked in water. Tack a 
leather strap, in loops, around the inside of the box, about half way up the 
sides and ends. This will be convenient for holding the trowel, old knife, plant 
sprayer, pliers, pruningknife, etc., and in the bottom have a small box of tacks, nails, 
screws, and another with tobacco powder, ready for fighting insects. Here also 
can be kept tobacco- soap and many other floral requisites all in readiness, and 
it will save much time and trouble in looking for them when wanted. 

Frosted Plants should at once be removed to a place where the tem- 
perature is just above the freezing point. Here carefully immerse each plant 
in a pail of cold water by placing the right hand over the top of the pot, allow- 
ing the plant to pass between the second and third fingers, and inverting the 
whole exactly the same as you would do in turning a plant out to examine its 
roots. If the temperature where you have the plants is below freezing, some 
lighted lamps will gradually raise it, but care should be taken not to increase 
the heat too much. 

Fuchsas. Those which have been resting in the cellar may now be re- 
moved to the light with moderate heat. Water as growth appears, and as 
the roots fill the pots, remove to a size larger, first shaking off most of the old 
soil. Use fresh, rich soil about the same as for geraniums, but let the leaf- 
mould form the largest portion. 

General Reminders. Plants and bulbs stored in cellars should be 
looked over occasionally, and all dried or decayed matter removed. Do not 
neglect moistening the soil of such plants as need it while wintering in the pit 
or cellar. They will not require much, but that little is too often forgotten. 
Tuberoses and Tigridias must be kept in a warm place where the temperature 
never falls below forty degrees. Keep them protected from mice or they will 
be minus in the spring. Sponge the leaves of your window plants often, to 
keep the dust from filling the pores. Use tepid water, with a little tobacco- soap 
dissolved in it. Keep all dead and decayed leaves picked from growing plants. 
In re- potting, if the ball of earth is hard or matted with roots, loosen it by gen- 
tly rapping against something. 

Hydrangeas, if wanted specially early, may be started. For general 
use, a month or two later will be better. 



18 



Ivies delight in having their leaves sponged, or syringed freely. Provide 
good supports. 

Lily of the Valley. Pips mayyet be potted for late blooming. SeeSept. 

Liquid Fertilizer is always preferable for pot plants, but it is not very 
convenient to obtain at this season of the year. A first rate substitute can be 
made by putting a shovelful of hen manure in a cloth bag, and allowing it to 
soak twenty four hours in a pail of water. Then remove the bag, and use the 
water sparingly once or twice a week ' on such plants as are making a good 
growth, or coming into bloom. Of the prepared fertilizers, " Bowker's Food 
for Flowers" or " Childs' Excelsior," are reliable, effective and always ready for 
use. 

Pelargoniums. if room can be made for them, bring from the cellar 

to a moderately warm place at first, cutting back well and re-potting in fresh soil. 

Plunger, This is a useful tool in plunging pots during the summer, and 

one that is easily made out of a block 
of hard wood two feet long and eight 
inches square. The block can be shaped 
by any one possessing a little patience 
and a sharp jack-knife, with a sheet of 
medium fine sand-paper to rub it down 
smooth, or any cabinet-maker will turn 
it down at a trifling cost. A straight 
stick of hard wood with a small piece 
mortised at the end, will answer for a 
handle, or that from an old spade if at 
hand, would be still better. For use- 
fulness see May. 

Primroses must be carefully watered, for too much moisture at the 
plant's center is ruination to them. Let the surface of the soil slope away from 
the plants to the edge of the pot. Do not moisten the leaves. 

Protect your plants well on cold nights by covering them with papers, 
or otherwise. A light frame, with legs several feet from the floor, and covered 
with " Patent Protecting Cloth," so that all sides may hang down two or three 
feet, will protect them from quite severe frosts and may be " worth its weight in 
gold " on extremely cold nights. It can be had for eight or ten cents per yard 
of Henderson & Co., New York. A lighted lamp set near the plants may also 
render valuable assistance. 

Sowing Seed. Those who have a light place in which to keep the 
young seedlings, may sow seeds of Petunia, Ten Week's Stocks, Pansies, etc. 

Tools. Now is a good time to repair, sharpen, and put in order for an- 
other season. Aim to have "a place for everything, and everything in its 
place." If you have no convenience for holding small floral requisites, make a 
box like the one suggested above. 




19 



February. , 

This month is doubtless as trying as any during the year for our pets, the 
flowers. The coldest weather is yet to come and at a time when the plants are 
least capable of bearing it. Long confinement in close quarters (debihtating to 
all kinds of life), and no small amount of coddling have made winter- blooming 
plants more than ever susceptible to the cold of winter. A little later, how- 
ever, they will pick up, and if the various little points necessary to their treat- 
ment are observed and attended to, they should be in good condition early next 
month, as the days will be longer and brighter. There is time yet before gar- 
den work actually begins, to study up and adopt some plan that should prove 
advantageous ; and there is seed to buy, plants and locations to select, and 
many other small, but none the less important things that may be done better 
now, than when the rush of work opens up later in the season. 

Air, Fresh air is as necessary to house plants as to human beings, but 
they do not like strong or sudden draughts. 

AlySSUm. Sweet Alyssum may now be started from seeds or slips. 

Amaryllis that has been kept dry in pots, may now be brought to a 
warm, light place, repotted in fresh soil and watered sparingly at first, and when 
the flower buds begin to expand, may be watered more freely. See January 
remarks. 

Azaleas as they complete their blooming period, should have a warmer 
place to induce a free growth for next season. Syringe frequently. 

Begonias of the Rex varieties are propagated from leaves, a process 
very interesting to any one who has never experimented in this line. A good 
plan is to take a well-matured leaf, trim off the outer edge, cut the largest ribs- 

just below the dividing points, then take a 

^j-|j^j^^^i^i^^;a^^^^^^'^=^^ flower-pot saucer nearly filled with sharp sand, 

/i^tW^0^^^ rz^^^^^:2^^^^£^ ^""^ press the leaf (face side up) slighly into it, 

v^^^^^'srW^^^^'^b'-c^^^i weighing the leaf down at the cuts with sand 

\ ^^^a^^^^^^^^^M^Sy or small pebbles. Place this in a larger saucer 

^^"^--^ i':i||||||||||| ' I'll JP^ ^^^^ keep in a warm situation, with hot water 

^~"^~~-'™™''''''^^'''^'^ in the large saucer and a pane of glass to 

Propagating Begonia from Leaf. ^^^g^. ^jj The water will soak through into 

the sand and keep it moist. Should it become too wet, turn out the water, and 
let the saucer remain dry for a short tinae. 

Flowering varieties which have -had proper care, should now reward the 
owner by a grand display of bloom. Water only when the soil appears dry on 
the surface, and then give sufficient to thoroughly moisten it all through. If 
proper drainage has been aUowed, all surplus water that the plant cannot retain 
will run off through the hole in the pot. A little weak liquid manure once or 
twice a week will benefit. 

20 



Begonias that have done blooming should be kept rather dry at the roots, 
and much of the old growth cut out Later new shoots will start, then the old 
soil can be shaken out and the plants repotted in fresh soil, using same sized 
pots. 

Bulbs forced in glasses may, after blooming, be planted in pots or boxes 
of good soil and allowed to ripen or dry off gradually, and used for outdoor 
planting, same as those grown in pots. Such as were late planted should still 
•continue to make a good show if brought from the cellar or pit as growth ap- 
peared. 

Cacti. Repot such as need it, this month or next, using moist soil of 
ordinary loam and sand in sufficient quantities to make it thoroughly porous. 
Shake off most of the old soil before repotting, and cut out all dried or dead 
roots close to the stem. A little thoroughly decayed manure may be put in 
before the soil, and a handful of clean sand right under the plant. Always use 
pots about the same size as the plants or just large enough to hold the roots 
comfortably. Clean white pebbles may be placed about the plants to steady 
them, and it will keep the water from splashing, besides giving a better effect. 
See March. 

Calceolarias. Treat seedli,ngs as you would Cinerarias. 

Callas. Such as have not yet bloomed should be kept steadily growing. 
Give quite warm water and do not crowd. Those started early should now be 
in flower. 

Camellias must have plenty of fresh air and moist atmosphere. Avoid 
all draughts and do not chill them. Sponge the leaves often. 

Chinese Sacred Lily should be planted the middle of this month for 
bloom at Easter. They may be grown in soil or water, but the usual way is to 
set the bulb in a fancy glass dish among pebbles, and keep it well supplied with 
water. A few lumps of charcoal in the bottom of the dish will help to keep the 
water pure. 

Chrysanthemums. Cuttings may now be taken, or a division of 
roots from those wintered in the cellar. Young plants should be potted in a 
moderately rich and substantial compost of about one part old manure, and two 
parts sand and decayed sods. Always provide good drainage. Keep them in 
a cool, shady place for a few days, or until started ; then remove to light, and 
air freely. As the pots become filled with roots shift to one size larger. Keep 
the ends of the branches well pinched back from the first, if well formed and 
bushy plants are desired. 

Cinerarias grown from seed, require about the same treatment as Glox- 
inias while young. 

Early Flowers. If you want early summer flowers, and have plenty 
of room to accommodate the plants, they may be brought from the cellar or pit 
to the light and heat about the last of February or early in March, repotted in 

21 



fresh soil and cut back. New growth will soon start, and by the time warm 
weather sets in they will be well advanced. 

Epiphyllum truncatum, if started early, will now be gay with bloom. 
Let it have all the sunshine possible, and water the same as other plants while 
in bloom, using quite warm water. 

Fondling Plants. Some people kill their plants with kindness. 
They give them every kind of stimulant that they learn of without stopping to 
reason the matter over, and it is as effective as feeding a dyspeptic with rich, 
indigestible food. 

Fuchsias. Those wintered in the cellar may be repotted and started 
for early spring blooming, if this has not yet been done. Do not let them get 
pot bound. 

General Reminders. Gloxinia and Cyclamen seed may be sown 
now, and as soon as the tiny plants appear "prick off" separately into a box of 
finely sifted leaf-mold, where they may remain until warm enough to transplant 
in a cold frame. Give plenty of light and moderate warmth while indoors. 
See May. Do not forget to outline next season's work, if not already done. 
Clean all pots once used before using again. 

Geraniums. Such branches as do not show signs of bloom may now 
be propagated for spring use, and as the old plants gradually finish blooming, 
they may be cut back and allowed to rest. 

Gloxinia bulbs may now be potted and started for early summer bloom- 
ing. Water moderately until growth appears. 

Grafting Dahlias. Where one has the convenience of a conservatory 
or greenhouse the tubers of some rare or fancy sort may be started now. A 
little later cuttings can be taken from the young growth and inserted in the 
tubers of ordinary varieties and planted. They will make good flowering: 
plants by summer. This is a good way to start new varieties when exchang- 
ing cuttings of choice kinds. 

Heliotrope. Take cuttings now for summer. Old plants may be kept 
along until spring, and then transplanted in the border. 

Hollyhocks. To secure bloom the first year from seed, it should be 
planted now in shallow boxes, and kept warm and moist until the seedlings ap- 
pear, then transplant, and keep growing moderately until it is warm enough to 
set out. Plenty of light, and moderate heat, should grow good, stocky plants- 
by spring. 

Insects. Look out for them as this is the time for their winter picnic, 
and they no doubt calculate having a good deal of fun in their way, but will 
will give fun of another kind, if allowed to get a good foothold. Suggestions. 
are offered for their extermination under " Insects and Remedies." 

Lemon Verbenia. These can now be brought to the window, and 
started in the same way as suggested for fuchsias in January. 

22 



Oleanders. it very early bloom is desired, and one has room for them, 
the plants may be brought from the cellar to warm and moderately light quar- 
ters. When growth begins, give more water and a little stimulant occasionally. 

Pansies. By carefully lifting some plants during a thaw, or when the 
ground under the snow is not frozen, and bringing them to a cool window, they 
will flower pretty well, if kept near the glass, and provided freely with fresh 



air. 



Pelargoniums. Keep growing steadily. Give plenty of light to pre- 
vent drawing, and do not let them suffer for lack of water. 

Plants kept in garret or cellar during winter, must be occasionally 
looked after. Insects may feed on them, and, unless exterminated, will soon 
kill the plants. 

Primroses. Treat as for Cinerarias. 

Propagation. Most kind of plants wanted for early spring use, may 
be started in moist sand. 

Protecting Plants. More care than usual will now be needed, es- 
pecially in rooms not supph'ed with constant heat. On very cold nights, it is 
well to move them a few feet from the window and cover lightly. See January. 

Pruning is needed as much in soft-wooded growths as any others, but 
amateurs in general seem to be afraid of using the knife on their plants. A 
little practice in this direction, with common- sense and judgment, will result in 
better shaped plants and more flowers. 

Roses. Monthlies should now be well advanced toward the blooming 
condition. Try to keep an even temperature of about fifty degrees. Let the 
atmosphere be as moist as possible, and keep down the aphis, and any other 
troublesome pest by the use of insecticides, as directed under "Insects and Reme- 
dies." Hybrid varieties that were potted in the fall, may now be removed to 
moderate heat. 

Sowing Seed. Those desired for early bedding, such as Stocks, Ver- 
benias, Pinks, Coboeas, may be sown early this month, and all annuals may be 
sown in boxes toward the last of the month. 




23 



March. 

As the days grow longer and the sun increases its power toward mother 
earth, there will be an awakening among the members of the Floral Kingdom, 
and all plants v/ill feel such beneficial influences from the warm rays of sunlight, 
that no artificial heat can produce. Plants will start with new vigor and activ- 
ity, promising with it more beauty and blossoms. March under ordinary cir- 
cumstances, is the gayest month of the season among indoor plants, and with a 
little forethought and attention, many that are about to blossom may be so ad- 
vanced or so retarded as to have their blooming period prolonged several weeks, 
if that be consistent with their nature. Plenty of air, an even, but rather low 
temperature and water accordingly, are important points. Some of the varie- 
ties that bloomed early in the season will now be preparing for a rest, and 
should be allowed to take it. 

Abutllon. Take cuttings now for winter flowering plants next season, 
and when propagated, keep them growing steadily by giving plenty of root 
room or reducing the ball of earth and roots at each shift. 

Agaratum is readily propagated from seed or cuttings. Some of the 
hybrid varieties can be obtained only from cuttings. They make fine border 
plants, especially the dwarf growing sorts. 

Amaryllis. At this season plenty of sunshine will benefit them, and if 
about to blossom, an occasional application of liquid matmre will help the flow- 
ers along as well as strengthen the color. 

Azaleas will stand a great amount of heat, but at the same time a moist 
atmosphere is essential. It is very important to dampen the foliage two or 
three times a day; this will supply much of the required moisture. 

Bulbs, such as Hyacinths and Tulips that have done blooming are use- 
less for forcing again. They should be ripened ofl" by giving less water, and 
finally removed to the cellar to rest until planting time in the fall. In the 
course of a season or two they will do pretty well, all things considered. 

Begonias. Bulbous varieties may now be potted in light, rich soil and 
given a warm place with moderate watering until started ; later they can be 
planted out in the border or veranda box. Flowering varieties which have 
been partially resting during the winter may be repotted in fresh soil, pruned 
into shape and given a light place. Rex varieties should have a change of top 
soil for half an inch or more, being careful not to injure the roots. Loosen the 
soil with a pointed stick and shake it out by turning the pot on its side. If 
filled with roots, shift to a size larger pot. 

Cacti. From now onward the temperature cannot be too high at the 
north, and a free exposure to the sun is desirable at all times to produce flowers. 
The soil should be composed of sufficient sand and loam to render it porous. 
A small portion of lime may be added for the Opuntia and Cereus types. 
Charcoal finely crushed is good to mix with the soil in moderate quantities. 

24 



Provide good drainage ; from one-fourth to one-half, if you expect them to do 
well. Very little water is needed for at least three months of the year — when 
the plants are kept cool and resting — November to January inclusive ; but they 
should be examined once a week. Never allow the soil to get in a stagnant, 
saturated condition. When growth is rapid, plants need more water than usual, 
and the strong, free flowering varieties may be given a little weak liquid manure, 
^both when growing rapidly and approaching the blooming stage. 

Ca.ila.S. After blooming they will continue growing, though not as vig- 
orous as before, and should gradually be given less water until warm enough to 
set out doors. See May. 

Cnnnas. If to be grown from seed it should be soaked for twenty-four 
hours before planting. Bulbs may be started for early stock, using rich soil. 

Carnations. Cuttings may yet be taken during the early part of the 
month. Young plants propagated early, for next winter, should have plenty 
of light, and but little direct sunshine, or heat, untfl time to plant out in the 
spring. 

Chrysanthemums. Give the young plants a light place while grow- 
ing to produce stout growth. A moderately cool temperature is required, 
■otherwise they will be weak and spindling. 

Cyclamen. Seed may be sown now in a saucer of sand as directed for 
germinating seeds under " Time Required for Germination " etc. When the 
seedlings appear keep them near the glass until warm weather. Transplant or 
shift as often as required, leaving the bulb partly exposed. 

Dormant Plants, such as Oleanders, Hydrangeas, Fuchsias, Cacti 
and other plants, may now be brought to the light and warmth, if space per- 
mits, and started growing again. Cut out the dead branches of some, and 
prune others to a good form after growth has started. 

Fernery. Lift the cover to ventilate and give a little fresh air occa- 
sionally, especially while airing other plants. Although ferns love moisture, 
free drainage is of real importance. 

Foliage Plants, such as Caladiums, Colocasias and Cannas, maj" be 
started in pots where one has room, and they will be well advanced by the 
time it is warm enough to bed them out in May. If Cannas are grov/n irom 
■seed, let it soak in water for a day and night before planting, to soften the hard 
shell. 

Fuchsias. While it does not seem wise or advisable to put young 
plants in large pots as a general rule, yet the fuchsia seems to do much better 
if given a little larger pot than ordinarily used. Let the soil be composed 
mostly of leaf- mold. Water thoroughly after potting, and keep well shaded 
for a few days until the roots become accustomed to the change. 

General Reminders. Keep the foliage of all plants clean. For 
shading under glass take naphtha or benzine, and add white lead until of the 
consistency of skim milk; apply with syringe. 

25 



Geraniums. Propagated now and well cared for as directed under 
" Some Practical Hints," should make good blooming plants by next winter. 
However, my experience leads me to believe that plants are better the second 
year, if properly cared for. They are larger and better for pruning into good 
shaped plants with more flowering surface. 

Gloxinias. Bulbs that have been at rest since fall, may now be started 
at intervals of two or three weeks for succession of bloom during the summer. 

Insects are likely to be more plentiful at this season than any other, 
and only determined effort with the use of insecticides will keep them in check. 
Keep them down by all means. Airing freely will help. 

Liquid Manure. Plants that have but a small area to grow upon are 
best treated with liquid manure, because this is the most advantageous method 
of supplying the fertility. It is advisable to dilute the mixture considerably 
and not apply too often, but at regular intervals. During winter the washings 
from barnyards may be obtained, and will prove efficient for this purpose. 

Oxalias should now be in bloom if in the full sunshine, and will need 
attention as to water. 

Palms from seed should be planted now. 

Pansies. Now is the best time to sow pansy seed for summer and fall 
blooming. Plants wintered over will bloom heavily in early spring, and will 
not be satisfactory bloomers during the latter part of summer. 

Phillocacti. The most important item is the soil. A light, turfy 
matter should form the basis, to which add one-third leaf-mold, old dried cow- 
manure and sand well mixed together, and use in a rather dry state. Good 
drainage is the surest means of preventing failure. When plants have attained 
a good size and fill the pots with roots, an annual top dressing of soil and ma- 
nure will suffice without repotting and is preferable, as the plants bloom better 
when undisturbed. They are not so particular about exact temperature as 
some others, but do better in a warm place when growing or blooming. 

Propagation of such plants as will be suitable for bedding out and 
window or veranda boxes may now go on. Cuttings of soft- wooded plants, 
such as Coleus, Alternantheras, Geraniums, Petunias, Ivy Geraniums, Helio- 
trope, Flowering Begonias, etc., are easily propagated in moist sand as ex- 
plained under " Propagating Plants." 

Protection. Shrubbery and plants often suffer more in the spring 
than during the winter, just when the sap begins to start, if not well protected. 
It is not the freezing that injures them, but the continual thawing and freezing 
as the sap is coaxed upward on bright days. 

RicinUS or Castor bean, if planted now in pots with bottom heat to 
germinate, can be forwarded as much as desired, and will be fine plants for the 
center of a foliage bed by spring. 

26 



Shading 'such windows as are exposed to strong sunshine, during the 
hottest part of the day will benefit most plants now, especially will it apply to 
Camellias and Primulas, that are easily injured by strong sunshine. 

Soil, Those who got in a supply last fall, will now be prepared to mix a 
portion for use when the young cuttings are ready for potting. It is better 
mixed a little in advance of using. 

Sowing Seed. This is a very important matter, and one in which am- 
ateurs are most likely to fail. If seeds are planted too deep, they either rot in 
the damp, cold soil for want of warmth necessary to germinate them, or after 
germinating, perish before the tender roots can reach the sun and air. Cover- 
ing seeds just the right depth is of much importance in their germination. As 
a rule, the smaller the seed the lighter they should be covered, and very fine 
seed should be simply scattered on top of the soil and lightly pressed in with a 
flat stick. Of course there are some kinds of seeds that are robust, and will 
grow no matter how they are treated. With care in planting to the required 
depth, a mellow soil finely sifted, warmth and moisture, failure is almost impos- 
sible if the seeds are good. 

Tender Plants for bedding, like Salvias, Heliotrope, and Coleus, may 
be started now, if convenient to handle them. 

Transplanting hardy shrubs, vines, etc., should be done as early in 
the spring as possible. Prune all useless or superabundant limbs, and do not 
keep the roots unduly exposed to winds, sun or frost, as they may be injured. 

Tuberose bulbs can be depended on for blooming but once, so be care- 
ful to get good, strong flowering bulbs, and order them early. Our warm sea- 
son is so short that it is best to start them in the house during March and April, 
in pots or shallow boxes. Provide good drainage and use good, rich soil, but 
before planting the bulbs put a little clean sand about each one, to prevent the 
rich soil coming in contact and rotting them. They should then be placed in 
a warm situation, and watered carefully until growth begins. When the leaves 
have grown two or three inches, remove them to a light, sunny place during 
the day, being careful that the plants do not get chilled. It is always a good 
plan to return them to a warmer quarter at night until well advanced in 
growth. To have a succession, plant bulbs in this way from the ist of March 
until about the middle of April. They can be kept in the pots or boxes, and 
bloom in them if desired, but when preferred in the open ground, they should 
be removed to a sunny situation about the 1st of June. Many causes of failure 
are due to poor soil, lack of moisture, and particularly lack of sufficient heat. 
Split off all the offsets with the thumb-nail, thus keeping all the strength in 
the bulbs for bloom. Excelsior and Diamond Pearl Strains are the best. 

Ventilation. On bright, warm days, admit plenty of fresh air. ic is 
just what plants need as well as human beings, but there should not be a draught, 

27 



neither should the air blow directly upon the plants. Let the opening be in an 
adjoining room if possible, or at a distance from the plants. 

Watering needs close attention, for at this season growth is very rapid, 
as well as evaporation. 

W^ax Plants may now be started. See October. 

Wild Flowers. Go forth into the woods in the early spring with a 
basket and a trowel in hand, and dig up some moss, fern- roots and Hepatica 
triloba, and add to them roots of wild violet and wood lily and plant them in 
a box, keeping them well watered. A bell glass placed over them will keep 
the atmosphere moist, and the leaves free from dust. When the tender ferns 
unroll and the flowers unfurl their hidden beauty, they will give you a glimpse 
of real nature. 




28 



April. 

The lengthening days and brighter sun indicate the approach of spring. 
During this month much important work may be done in the flower garden ; 
though perhaps only in some sections, it nevertheless pays to do all that can be 
done now, so that when spring weather actually unfolds itself, no time will be 
lost on account of any unnecessary delay in attending to the various little mat- 
ters. The active, energetic flower lover will " take time by the forelock," and 
" improve each shining hour." One of the first essentials toward successful 
flower growing is a thoroughly prepared soil. Have this spaded deep and en- 
riched with well decayed manure. If the first spading does not loosen it suf- 
ficiently, go over the bed again, for according as we now prepare shall our 
pleasure be when summer has put on her floral garb. 

Annuals sown early, must not be crowded ; transplant or thin out. 

Airing. Let it be freely done now as the weather outside will permit. 
It will do the plants good to set them out doors on warm days, and particularly 
so if a warm shower is visible. 

Azaleas. When the blooming season and growth is pretty well over 
give freely of fresh air and syringe well. 

Begonia Wiltoniensis that has been resting during the winter may be 
re-potted in fresh, rich soil, and brought to the window after a few days. It 
will make a fine spring and summer bloomer. 

DUlb Beds may now be uncovered. Should there come a frosty night 
they can be covered lightly again. When through flowering, the bulbs may 
be lifted with some soil about them, and put in boxes to ripen, in order to give 
space for something else. Water moderately for a while, and when ripe re- 
move to the cellar to^remain until fall. 

CallaS will be about completing their winter's bloom and growth, and 
will need to rest until fall. As soon as it is warm enough, plant them out in 
good, rich soil, taking them from the pots. A spot shaded during the* hottest 
part of the day will be right. 

Camellias should be more frequently syringed, or the leaves sponged, 
as the moisture soon evaporates. 

Chrysanthemums. If new varieties from cuttings are wanted for 
blooming next fall, start them now in sand. For fall blooming in the window 
it is preferable to grow them in pots, but care should be taken so as not to let 
them become pot-bound. A steady, healthy growth is required for good re- 
sults. Don't be afraid to keep the ends of the branches pinched in if you care 
for well formed plants. See that they do not suffer for want of water. 

ColeUS. If wanted for bedding, tak-e cuttings now and as soon as pio- 
pagated, pot in good, rich soil. 

29 



Dormant Plants such as Dahlias, Caladiums and Cannas, should now 
be started if not already done. 

Flower Beds. The proper time, for sowing seed in open ground will 
depend upon the condition of the season. If good weather should come early 
with a fair probability of remaining, the first sowing may sometimes be made soon 
after the middle of April, but there is nothing to be gained in sowing seeds in 
the open ground so long as the weather remains unsettled, and rarely can little 
be done in this line before May. 

Fuchsias often bloom freely at this season, and need considerable 
water. A little stimulant at such times will benefit them. They like plenty of 
root-room and should not become pot bound. To secure the best effects from 
the Fuchsia, it should be grown where it can be looked up at. If placed on a 
bracket above the level of the eye, the flowers show to the best advantage. 

General Reminders. Remember to shift such plants as require it. 
Active plants must have fresh, sweet soil if they would show their vigor and 
beauty. If shrubs or bushes are to be pruned let it be done without delay. 
Guard against insects. Climbers for summer, like Maurandia and German Ivy 
will do better if cut back now. Look close to the propagating box and pot all 
slips that have roots. Syringe roses with tobacco water two or three times 
during the month as a preventative against the rose slug. In digging the 
flower beds, spade them over deep. Ground dug to the depth of two feet re 
sists the drouth better than if dug only one foot. 

Gladiolus. Toward the end of April the first planting may be done, 
continuing at intervals of two weeks up to June. 

Gloxinias for summer flowering may now be started in pots or boxes. 

Hanging Baskets for summer should be started now, by dividing or 
slipping suitable plants. If the little trouble of taking them down when in need 
of water, as directed in September, is carried out, a Begonia Wiltoniensis and 
Geranium or two would make a good display among Ivy Geraniums, Kennel- 
worth, and common Ivies. 

Hardening Off is of much importance to plants intended for bedding 
out as soon as the weather will permit. Tender plants that were started last 
month should have plent}' of fresh air on bright days and a gradual cooler tem- 
perature, but run no chances of being injured by frosts. 

Heliotrope. Old roots may be planted in the border when the weather 
is warm enough. Young plants for next winter's bloom may be grown along- 
side of Chrysanthemums, requiring about the same treatment. 

Iris. To do well it should be replanted once in three years, as the new 
bulbs produced each season are directly under the old one, and in a few years 
become too deep in the earth to grow well. Divide the roots at each planting. 

Ivy Geraniums, if cut back now, will be in fine shape for summer. 
Cuttings propagated in sand should make pretty good plants by June. 

30 



Oleanders, when two or more years old, make fine decorative plants 
here and there on the lawn. Do not neglect the supply of water, and stimu- 
late occasionally when ab^ut to bloom. 

Pansies from seed should be bedded out the latter part of the month so 
as to get a good start before hot weather. 

Petunias.. Old plants of ill- shaped growth should be well cut back and 
re-potted, or planted out in good, rich soil. They would do well in a window 
or veranda- box among other plants, in a few weeks. 

Propagating. Start cuttings of Coleus, Double Petunias, and any 
other soft wooded plants, if wanted for bedding next month. Slips of many 
kinds of plants for bloom next winter may be started now. 

Pruning. Let this be done without delay to Roses, Clematis and such 
other shrubs and vines as may need it, before the sap starts. 

Roses, and in fact all hardy plants and shrubs should be set out as early 
as possible when the soil is ready to receive them. 

Shade. Most plants still under glass will need some shade from this on, 
and especially those completing their season's growth, or such as are likely to 
spot. See March. 

Sowing Seeds. A hotbed is just the thing in which to start flower 
•seeds, but every flower lover does not have the conveniences of such, and when 
this is the case, they may be started in shallow boxes in the house, and trans- 
planted later. They must have plenty of light. See " Hints on Seed Sowin"." 

Smilax delights in a moderately damp atmosphere and a uniform tem- 
perature of fifty or sixty degrees, with frequent syringing of foliage. Unless 
the plants are in their first year they should have partial rest during the sum- 
mer. 

Sweet Peas should be sown as soon as the ground can be worked. 
Soak the seed first to soften the hard shell. If sown in a row five inches wide 
and at a distance of two or three inches apart, they can be easily cared for, and 
trained to wire screening or other trellis. 

Tuberoses. In order to be successful with them in the Northern 
State, they should be started now, or earlier if space can be allowed. Provide 
an even bottom heat to start the roots. See March. 

Veranda Box. Take cuttings and prepare such plants as will be 
wanted for stocking boxes in May. The earlier started, better will be the dis- 
play when set out doors. Geraniums, Begonias, Ivies, Fuchsias and many other 
plants do well. 

Water Lilies. Experiments show that Nymphaea odorata can be 
successfully grown at home by setting a half barrel in the ground and planting 
the roots in four or five inches of rich soil. Fill the barrel with water and as it 
■ evaporates replenish. 

31 



W^ild Garden. Let every flower lover who has few feet of ground 
devote a portion of it to wild flowers. When gathering them in the woods, 
take up few handfuls of soil at the same time, to put about the roots when 
planting, that they may gradually adjust themselves to the change. There are 
species of our native plants that do not take kindly to cultivated soil, but with 
care in making the conditions as nearly like those in which they are found, they 
will gradually become used to the change. Go into the wood and look about. 
You will see a number of plants growing there which are handsome enough 
for any garden. 

May. 

To most of our Northern people real spring days, laden with the perfumes 
of bright spring flowers, do not come much before this month. At no other 
time in the year are the changes from one season to another so sharply 
marked as at this, and, so far as its practical bearings are concerned. May Day 
indicates to many far more the beginning of an annual cycle than the first of 
January, occurring as it does, when all nature is about to shake off the last 
remains of her wintry garments, soon to appear adorned in leafy green and 
fragrant flowers. The return of new life and activity that surrounds us at every 
turn, the balmj/ air we breathe laden with strange, magical powers, seem to 
take possession of our whole being, and to transfuse bright hopes, fresh aims 
and new life through the body and mind. It is wise not to trust a warm May 
too far, for both chilly weather and killing frosts are liable to occur during the 
early part of the month, which tender plants do well to escape, but the vacant 
beds may be put in shape to receive the plants intended for them. In the 
arrangement of flower beds and borders, bear in mind the importance of 
having the colors and shadings blend in harmony with each other. A few 
plants tastefully arranged will produce a more pleasing effect than many 
planted without regard to harmony in color. We have but to study nature to 
become familiar with the proper groupings, shades and colors. She makes no 
mistakes, and is a teacher that may be followed to such success as each 
individual student is capable of imitating. 

Azaleas should be placed out doors as soon as all danger of frost is past. 
Withhold water gradually and keep them in partial shade during the summer. 

Bedding Plants like Caladiums, Canna, and Castor Oil Beans, delight 
in a rich, mellow soil and plenty of water. Work in a good quantity ot fertilizer 
that is well rotted, to a depth of two feet or more. 

Cacti delight in heat and sunshine. The native habitation of many 

varieties is dry and hot. Some need more water and sunshine than others. 

Many of these curious plants bed out well. Growing plants should be 

stimulated occasionally. Such as were forced into bloom last winter should 

have a partly shady position and scarcely any water until time to start agaia 

in the fall. 

32 



Calceolarias require about the same treatment asCinerarias. 

Callas. By this time, growth of such as furnish flowers during winter 
will be about completed, and they should be placed in a shady nook, turning 
the pots sideways, resting the upper edge or rim on a notched block of wood 
about three inches thick, so that they will slant and receive only a portion of 
the rain that falls. Should the weather become unusually dry, supply a little 
water so that the soil will not dry out completely. 

Camellias can be given a place beneath the shade of some tree along 
with Azaleas, if the weather is settled. Protect them from winds and syringe 
freely. 

Chrysanthemums are thirsty plants, and must have plenty of water. 
Do not crowd them. Take good care of young plants and do not let them 
become pot bound. Keep them pinched back if bushy plants are wanted. 
Old plants should be repotted, if not already done, shaking out most of the 
soil and trimming off the roots. Use same sized pots if the bunch of root is 
reduced. These plants need shifting often or the roots reduced, otherwise they 
become root- bound. 

Cinerarias. Keep the young plants growing in a healthy condition 
and as the pots become moderately filled with roots, shift into a size larger. 
They may be placed in a cold frame during the hot weather and shaded lightly, 
but should not become root-bound. 

Cyclamen may be set out in the border by the middle or latter part of 
the month. Let it be a partly shaded place, with good, rich soil. 

Ferns. Nature, as if in compensation for their lack of flowers, has given 
to ferns. an attractiveiuss of foliage possessed by no other class of plants. Here, 
surely, beauty is given for its own sake. Here is none of the " beauty the best 
policy," which we sometimes suspect in the forms and colors of flowers, put 
on to attract the visits and services of insects. If you have a shady nook or 
convenient place about a large tree, plant some ferns from the woods, allowing 
them a good supply of their native soil. 

Floral Screens. Such climbers as Morning Glories, Nasturtiums, and 
ornamental gourds, furnish us with nature's drapery, and nothing produced by 
art can equal their elegant grace. The growth is so rapid that they will cover 
an arbor or trellis in a very short time, and under the control of the skillful 
gardener and tasteful amateur, the unsightly building or stump can be made to 
bloom with beauty. 

Fuchsias. Such as furnished flowers during the winter should now be 
brought to a state of partial rest. Those intended for summer blooming should 
be well advanced, and unless it is preferred to grow the plants in a window or 
veranda box, plunge the pots to the rim in boxes of soil free from earth worms. 
This will keep the roots cool during the hot weather and maintain an even 
moisture about them, which is almost impossible to do where the pots are 
exposed to the warm air and drying winds. 



General Reminders. Keep the tools clean. Loss of time, strength 
and satisfaction in doing the work must be endured if this is not done. Keep 
a sharp look out for insects and banish them at first appearance. Stir the soil 
frequently so that it can admit air to the roots of plants. 

Gladiolus may be planted as soon as the ground becomes fit to work, 
but to enjoy a continuous bloom during the summer and fall, plantings should 
be made at intervals of two weeks up to the last of June. Set the bulbs about 
four inches deep. 

Gloxinias from seed, or after blooming in the house, may be planted in 
a cold frame toward the middle or latter part of this month, where the former 
will make a slow, steady growth, and the latter gradually ripen their bulbs 
previous to resting until August. 

Hydrangeas can now have a place on the porch or other spot where 
they will be protected from the hot sunshine during midday. A little liquid 
manure once or twice a week will produce a stronger growth and finer flowers. 

India Rubber Plant. This is a good foliage plant for the window 
the year around. Sponge the leaves frequently to keep them clean and free 
from red spider. 

Ixias that have completed growth and bloom should be gradually dried 
off and removed to a cool dry place for the summer, like Oxalis. 

Oleanders that were brought to the light early, should now be in 
bloom. The lawn is a good place to show their beauty. Water and stimulate 
as you would Hydrangeas. Every other year will be sufficient for changing 
the soil. 

Oxalis. As it completes the season of bloom, remove the pot or basket 
to cooler quarters, turning it on one side to ripen the bulbs and gradually 
withhold water. They can be stored in a cool, dry place during the summer 
in the same pot, or shaken from the soil, wrapped in paper, and kept dry until 
fall. 

Palms. Give about the same treatment as for Oleanders. 

Pelargoniums. Shade, coolness and water, according to conditions 
of the season, will suit those about to bloom, and prolong their beauty. 

Planting. When setting pot plants in the open ground and the ball 
of earth is crusted with matted roots, rap it gently with a stick to lessen 
the resistance, and give the roots a chance to start out in the fresh soil. 

Plunging. This is a convenient way to carry over during the summer 
such plants as need rest and are wanted for blooming next winter, and by the 
use of the plunger described in January, the annoyance and trouble from 
worms entering the drainage hole below can be avoided to say nothing of 
labor saved. If the earth has become packed solid, it should first be worked 
over to the depth of the plunger. By measuring the rim of different sized pots 
and marking the corresponding measure upon the plunger, it will be an easy 

34 



matter to regulate the depth according to size of pot plunged. Boxes of sifted 
soil, free from vermin, are also convenient for summering plants. 

Propagation. Such plants as are wanted for next winter's flowering 
from cuttings should be started now. 

Removing Plants to their summer quarters may begin now, first 
taking the more hardy sorts like Oleanders, Hydrangeas, Azaleas, etc., followed 
by the tender varieties toward the end of the month. A partially shaded place 
will suit most of them best, for the sun's rays during the middle of the day from 
now on will be powerful and burning. 

Seed Sowing. Let it be done without delay, in rich, mellow soil, as 
it is generally warm enough now for all seeds. Cover lightly, firm the soil 
with a flat stick and water with a fine rose, or still better, a syringe having a 
fine spray, that the soil may not be disturbed. Do not cover too deep. There 
is far less risk in covering seeds too little than too much. 

Tender Plants should not be set out doors until the weather is 
settled and all danger of night frosts are over. Toward the end of the month 
will be soon enough for most bedding plants. Where one has the convenience, 
(pots, or tin cans and a cold frame) they may be started early and forwarded 
so as to produce a very good effect as soon as bedded out. 

Tigridias. It is generally safe to plant them now, though the bulbs 
are not as hardy as Gladiolus and are easily injured by frost. Set two inches 
deep. 

W^atering. Plants cannot live without water any better than people 
and perhaps not as well, all things considered, but it requires good judgment 
to supply it. Don't be too systematic about it, but apply when needed. 

Yucca Filamentosa will succeed well in a light, rich soil. 



mi 



35 



June. 

With the floral world, the month of June, embroidered with clusters of 
odorous roses, rich with the freshness of spring, and the luxuriance of summer, 
is considered one of the most beautiful of the seasons. A bright and balmy 
June day with the refining influences which nature is unfolding, the verdure of 
the fields, the marvelous bloom of the trees, together with the transcendent 
beauty of the early spring and summer flowers, all conspire to bring to our hearts 
an ardent love for the beautiful. In the North, work among the flowers during 
the month will be mainly in the line of weeding, loosening the soil and protect- 
ing plants from the ravages of insect pests, which should be faithfully performed 
if it is desired to have the flowers look their best. 

Abutilons are well adapted for winter flowering if grown in pots 
during summer and the pots become well filled with roots. They never flower 
well if over potted, and should not become pot-bound. 

Amaryllis after completing its blooming period, should rest during 
the hot weather. Those grown for summer flowering ought to be well advanced 
and may need a little liquid fertilizer soon. 

Annuals and other seeds that were sown last month will be well up 
now, and it is important that they be thinned out so as to allow sufficient room 
for the proper development of each plant. 

Azaleas should now be out in their summer quarters, which ought 
to be partially shaded, as beneath a tree, the shady side of a building, or under 
lath shutters, the lath being nailed about half an inch apart. Place a board or 
flat stone under the pots so that worms will not get in them. 

Begonias. The flowering varieties may yet be propagated for 
blooming next winter. Young plants previously propagated, and in pots, will 
need shifting as growth advances and the roots fill the pots. They should now 
be out doors for the summer in a partially shady place. Tuberous sorts that 
were started in March or April can be set out in the border. They are also 
excellent for veranda boxes, and just the thing to plant here and there in such 
a box as described under " Summer Treatment." 

Cacti. Such as complete their blooming period this month should 
be ripened off by giving a somewhat sunny position. It is often stated that 
these curious plants can do without water for several weeks at a time. This 
may be true of them in their native haunts where the roots can wander about 
and find moisture beneath stones or roots of trees, and it is no doubt so with 
some species, but when we have them in pots, they are differently situated and 
should have some water, though not as much or as often as other plants ; merely 
enough to keep them from shriveling up. If plunged in a box of soil and set 
in a warm, sunny border, they will summer well and need but little attention. 
Cuttings should be kept for several days in a dry place to callous the wound 
before propagating; then they will take root more readily with less liability of 

decajnng. 

36 



Calceolarias. Seed may yet be sown for winter flowering. 

Callas, toward the end of the month, may be turned out of their 
pots and set in the garden beneath the shade of large plants, for it is usually 
very hot and dry at this season. Here they may remain until time to repot in 
August. 

Carnations should be staked to prevent the blossoms from being 
spoiled by the rain. Those intended for winter flowering should be kept pinched 
back and not allowed to bloom much during the summer. 

Chrysanthemums should now be making a fine growth, and will 
need watering freely. Give stimulants as required, and keep the plants pinched 
in pretty well, for they are quite rapid groweis. 

Cinerarias from seed should be treated as directed in May. 

Cyclamen. Treat seedlings same as Cinerarias. 

Everlastings. Seed may be sown early this month. They are 
usually in demand during winter for decorating. 

Flowers can be kept fresh for some time if a pinch of soda or 
saltpetre is added to the water. 

Fuchsias in pots do not like to be cramped for root room when 
growing. They give the best satisfaction when grown in window or veranda 
boxes if not exposed to the strong sunshine of midday. No soil seems to suit 
them quite as well as that from the woods. They may also be bedded out if 
protected from heavy winds and hot rays of the sun. 

General Reminders. Peg down the branches of such plants as Ver- 
benias, Lantanas, and Petunias, so that they will root where pegged, and thus 
give an increase of growth and bloom. To keep house plants over summer, see 
" Plunging " in May. Hanging baskets above all things must be kept well 
watered if good results are to be expected. 

Hibiscus may be easily propagated from cuttings for next year's bloom. 
Plants that blossomed in the house last winter can be summered with other 
house plants in a partially shady place, or planted out in the garden so as to be 
somewhat protected fiom the fierce heat of the sun. 

Plant Training. Amateurs are usually too much afraid of using a 
priming knife, and in consequence we often see long-legged, ill- shaped plants 
with but few flowers. One thing that should be remembered is, the more prun- 
ing the more branches and larger surface for producing flowers. 

Pomegranates. Give applications of weak liquid manure occasion- 
ally as the blooming period approaches, it will strengthen the plants and increase 
the quality of the flowers. 

Primroses should be carefully shaded from the strong sunshine. See 
"Shading." 

Shading. Plants kept in conservatories, greenhouses and cold h'ames, 
should be shaded from the hot sunshine by whitewashing the glass or with 
benzine and white lead about the consistency of milk. 

37 




staking should be done promptly where it is necessary to protect plants 
from being broken by the wind or severe storms. 

Summer Treatment. Some valuable suggestions upon treating 
house plants are offered under " Some Practical Hints," but here is another 
point from practical experience worth considering. If your house is so situated 
as to leave an angle or corner facing northeast, you will find this a most excel- 
lent spot to summer the plants. Make a stand or table, about two and one-half 
feet wide and long enough to fit in the corner, standing a foot or eighteen 
inches from the building. This will hold a large number of plants conveniently 

for handling as circumstances may require, 
besides being protected from strong winds 
and beyond the liability of injury by cats 
and dogs. A five- inch strip nailed around 
the edges of the table will form a sort of 
box that may be filled with coarse sand, 
gravel or moss, between the pots to prevent 
rapid evaporation of moisture, thus saving 
much labor in watering. The best looking 
plants in pots should be placed in the 
front row, and to give a more pleasing effect, a box twelve by eighteen inches, 
and the same length as the table, can be attached in front so as to project below 
the top of the table. Fill this with good soil from the woods and artistically 
arrange ferns and other native plants delighting in a shady place and plenty of 
water. 

Sweet Peas. Pick the blossoms freely, as they will bloom better if not 
allowed to mature seed. Save only choicest for seed. Pinching back once or 
twice will help lo produce more flowers. This will also apply to Pansies. 

Veranda Boxes will, from now on, need plenty of water or they will 
suffer extremely, for they are usually exposed too much to sunshine and drying 
winds. Whenever they require water give enough to wet the soil all through 
and if good drainage has been provided all surplus water will run off. An 
occasional watering of weak manure water will add much to the beauty of the 
flowers. 

Watering. Let this be your motto, " Water only such plants as require 
it, and do so thoroughly." Don't soak them all down whether they need it or 
not. Some require more water than others and this can be known by first 
stirring the soil about them. Apply the water toward evening so that it will 
have time to moisten the earth all through before the heat of next day comes on. 
If there should be some plants next morning needing water, give them a drink. 
Wax Plant. This requires a light, sandy soil and only a small quantity 
of water. A very rich soil, kept moist, will produce rot near the base. 

Window Boxes if properly arranged and judiciously planted and cared 
for, will afford much pleasure. See " Veranda Boxes." 

38 



July. 



In the garden at this time we should be enjoying an abundance of gor- 
geous blossoms laden with sweet odors from the beautiful flowers, and our floral 
pets will fully meet our expectation if we treat them well. Plenty of water and 
a liberal use of the hand-rake and weeder will stimulate them to renewed effort, 
Cleanliness and tidiness applies not only to the plants themselves and the ridding 
of their insect enemies, but also to the surroundings. All these little things 
will count in making the flower garden attractive during the summer. What 
place can be more beautiful than a neat and well-tended garden where fruit and 
flowers grow in abundance ? The influence of such upon a home is beneficial 
in both hygienic and moral ways. Flowers are emblems of refinement, purity 
and love, and wield a magical influence over the human mind. All who have 
flowers in abundance can well afford to be generous with them and should bear 
in mind that often a few bright, simple blossoms will bring a joyous smile into 
the sick room, and cast a ray of sunshine upon the bed of the afflicted. 

Abutilons. Such as blossomed last winter and have been resting since 
should now be repotted in fresh soil, first shaking out most of the old soil and 
reducing the mass of roots. Cut back the branches severely and encourage a 
steady growth from now on, so that they will be in prime condition for winter 
flowering again. Those in tubs or bedded out should not suffer for want of 
water or food during the hot weather. 

Agapanthus. This being what is known as a sub-aquatic plant it should 
have plenty of water when in bloom. 

Ageratum, if wanted for winter flowering, should be somewhat held in 
check now, or it will be exhausted by too free blooming. Pot a few plants and 
pinch the ends of the branches back. 

Bouvardias will stand cutting back pretty well now if for winter flower- 
ing. Mealy bugs seem to be particularly fond of this plant and should be 
looked for carefully, with a view of keeping them down. 

Cacti delight in full sunshine, and if growing or in bloom, will need 
watering frequently. 

Callas should be turned out of their pots and set in a shady border, as 
directed in June. The object being to keep the plants comparatively dormant 
during the summer and to afford an opportunity of recovering from the previous 
season's forcing and to store up material for next winter. 

Carinas and other foliage plants will be much benefited by occasional 
applications of liquid manure and frequent stirring of the soil. It will increase 
the beauty of the foliage. 

Carnations. Keep the flower shoots cut off during the summer that 
they may be ready for blooming later. 

39 



Chrysanthemums. Give plenty of water and train as you desire 
them to grow. See May. 

Cyclamen. Seedlings from last year's sowing should be making a 
strong growth for sustaining winter bloom. They do not flower as a general 
thing until the second season from seed. 

Fuchsias. Such as are at rest and intended for winter blooming should 
now be repotted in fresh leaf- mold, cut back, and watered sparingly at first. 

General Reminders. Shade plants under glass by whitewashing. 
See June. It is not too early to prepare potting soil for fall use. See direc- 
tions under " Practical Hints." A pinch of salt in water will help greatly to 
keep cut flowers fresh. Remove all flowers as soon as faded. Don't let your 
plants produce seed unless you need it. 

Geraniums for winter blooming seem to do better if kept in pots during 
the summer and treated as suggested under " Summering " in June. If set out 
in the garden the roots spread more or less, and when it is time to lift them 
many roots are broken, causing a severe check. Should early growth begin, 
pinch back to produce stockincss. Re- pot next month. 

Gloxinias. Early started bulbs should be in bloom during this month. 
After blooming the supply of water should be diminished to ripen the tubers. 

Heliotrope. Propagate cuttings now for winter flowering. 

Hydrangeas are fine for porch decoration, where they can have partial 
shade. Give an occasional application of liquid manure when in bloom. 

Insects are troublesome at all times and should be looked for and kept 
down by the use of insecticides lest they become so numerous as to overrule. 

Lantanas are good pot plants, but need pruning severely to keep 
them in shape. Give about the same culture as geraniums. 

riulch. Stir the soil well and mulch as much as possible. It helps 
materially to keep the soil from drying out and prevents the hot sunshine and 
drying winds from injuring the roots. 

Pelargoniums that have done blooming may be planted out in a half- 
shady place for the summer. 

Petunias slipped now will make thrifty young pot plants for fall and 
winter bloom. White, pink and crimson of the doubles make a good assort- 
ment and do well in a basket, if well supplied with water. 

Primroses. Keep them in a cool, shady place and water only when 
they require it. See August. 

Propagating Box. A small box with clean sand is always convenient 
for stickin>7 cuttings in. Sink a small pot in the center through which to 
supply water. See " Propagation of Cuttings." 

Verbenias. To do well they must have rich soil and a sunny posi- 
tion. Peg the branches down and remov/e all fading flowers. 

40 



Violets. Propagate by pegging down the strongest branches and when 
roots liave formed make a new bed. See August. 

Watering. Let it be done thoroughly if at all. The mere sprinkling 
of a little water over the surface of a flower bed once or twice a day to crive it 
the appearance of being watered, really does more harm than good; it is not 
enough to moisten the soil to any depth, and soon dries out again, leaving the 
earth in a hard, crusted, or baked condition. Loosening or stirring the soil 
freely will do more towards supplying the needed moisture. To be of any 
benefit in dry weather, water should be applied in sufficient quantities as to 
reach the roots of the plants, and if the soil is well stirred each afternoon or 
evening following, for three or four days, it will retain the moisture longer and 
is preferable to frequent waterings. 

Chrysanthemums. — As they finish blooming gradually withhold 
water, cut off the tops, and store them in the cellar or other cool place until 
spring They will need enough water to keep the soil from getting dust dry. 
Always label name and color. 

Failures may be expected frequently by anyone embarking in a new 
enterprise who neither avail themselv'es of the experience of others nor take 
pains to become informed by reading on the subject. Judicious persons will 
make use of both of these means of information. 




41 



August. 

Is there anything more charming in the natural world than a flower garden, 
with its walks, paths and avenues, and the clean, smooth-shaven strip of green- 
sward so nicely arranged; then, too, the flowers, in their almost unnumbered 
varieties and endless diversity of colors, who can describe them ? What spot 
on earth contains so much that is really beautiful ? Would that with every 
human habitation there were flowers to bestow their charms, blessings and 
enjoyment in every department of life. How they would sweeten toil and care, 
and smooth many a hard and difficult path in life's journey, lifting the thoughts 
to that world where flowers immortal bloom ! How much pleasure and enjoy- 
ment could our rural people derive by simply observing and utilizing the many 
natural and beautiful objects which may be found near every country home ! 
Those who will but look about can soon find many things that could be used 
effectively in the garden or window. The flower garden this month will many 
times look feeble and neglected, while perhaps the best care is really given it. 
This neglected appearance is due to the extreme heat, ofttimes drouth, and to 
the fact that the plants are feeble and weak from abundant blooming. Decay- 
ing flower stems of all kinds of plants should be cut down, and the beds kept 
as neat as possible. It is a poor plan to let any plants bear seed that is not 
wanted for use, for the effort to mature seed is far more exhausting than the 
production of flowers. 

Ageratums will now be inclined to bloom and if wanted for winter 
flowering they should be checked by pinching and re-potting, if the pots are 
filled with roots. Similar to Chrysanthemums, they grow long branches rapidly, 
and need pinching back freely to produce stocky plants. 

Annuals. Many varieties are easily propagated from cuttings and if 
wanted for winter use should be started now. See September. 

Aspidistra. When the leaves are growing well, an occasional appli- 
cation of manure water will improve their beauty. 

Begonias. Some plants grown for winter flowering, if advanced too 
rapidly, may be inclined to bloom now, and if preferred later they should be 
kept in a rather cool place to retard growth. If growth is rapid and blossoms 
have not set, the ends of the branches may be pinched in to produce stockiness. 

Bouvardias. If for early winter flowering, re-pot now in fresh soil. 
Those planted out should be carefully lifted or they will wilt badly. See 
" Lifting." 

Browaliias. Seed "may be sown now for winter flowering plants. 
They make fairly good house plants, and as the prevailing color is blue, are 
desirable for that purpose, especially as blue flowers are rare among house 
plants. 

Bulbs. Don't forget that they must be planted in the fall months. 
Many people forget this or labor under an erroneous idea that they can be 

42 



planted in the spring just as well, only to be disappointed when that time comes. 
If to be purchased, order early, before the finest have been picked out. 

CdCti. Do not let them stay out in cold or wet weather at this season. 
When the evenings become damp and chilly remove them to a dry, airy place. 

CallaS. The latter part of this month re- pot in rich soil and water as 
required. This is a plant which grows in mucky, low places in its native 
country, in a very warm climate, and in cultivating it we must aim to make our 
treatment correspond as closely to the conditions under which it would grow in 
its home, as it is possible to do, if we would be successful in growing it. 

Carnations should be nice and stocky now and "pinching in " stopped. 
The last of this or the beginning of next month will be time enough for potting. 

Chrysanthemums, it does not seem wise or advisable to pinch them 
back later than this month, as a rule ; but some slender varieties may need a 
little pruning. Stake and tie up such as need it and give water and liquid 
manure freely. If aphide or thrips appear, rid them by applications of Sulpho- 
tobacco soap, or tobacco dust, as directed under " Insects and Remedies." li 
any plants were bedded out for the summer, lift and pot now, so as to get well 
established for flowering by the last of next month. They like to be planted 
firmly, in rich soil, with plenty to eat and drink and to have four or five hours 
of sunshine a day. 

Cinerarias. Re-pot before they get root-bound. Keep them cool 
and lightly shaded from strong sunshine until next month. 

ColeUS make satisfactory pot plants for winter decorations and for that 
purpose, cuttings may be propagated in moist sand. 

Cyclamen. Bring them from their summer quarters, re- pot in fresh 
soil and encourage growth. 

EcheveriaS do not require very rich soil. Let it be light, porous and 
sandy. Do not over- water. 

Evergreens may be successfully transplanted this month. Select damp 
cloudy weather, guard the roots carefully against drying even on the surface 
while out of the ground, and sprinkle the plants overhead every evening for 
several weeks after planting. 

Everlastings. Gather them for drying before fully expanded, tie in 
small bunches and han.g in the shade to dry. 

Freesias. Those carefully stored away last spring may now be brought 
out and planted in pots and boxes. About six bulbs can be growai in the space 
of a five- inch pot. They are most excellent for winter use, and for a succession 
of bloom should be started at intervals of a week or two apart. 

Fuchsias. Plants of the winter flowering varieties that need re-potting 
should have attention early and if not set with buds, a final, thorough and 
judicious pruning will make better shaped plants of them. Let the soil be 
composed mostly of leaf- mold. Water sparingly until growth is well advanced, 

43 



General Reminders. Keep the soil between all flowering plants and 
shrubs well stirred or mulched. Chip dirt from the wood- pile or decayed stumps 
in the woods is just the thing for mulching. Now is the time to divide and 
re-set the little double Daisy ( Bellis pereiinis). Provide pots, soil and such 
other necessaries as will be needed later. Trim the edges of flower beds and 
walks. In the absence of a sharp edging knife, a sharp spade will do. Holly- 
hocks and other tall flowering plants are not safe from injury by heavy winds 
without being tied up to stakes. 

Geraniums for winter bloom should be pinched back until the latter 
part of the month and then allowed to make a slow, stout growth and set buds. 
Such as furnished flowers during the summer should be stored in a cellar or pit 
nextmontli before freezing. An easy way to winter them is to lift and pack in 
small boxes, filling in about the roots with earth. If the cellar is dry, let the 
soil be quite moist; but if damp, have the earth rather dry. 

Gloxinias. Those furnishing flowers early will soon show signs of rest, 
then gradually withhold water until they are quite dry. Seedlings of last 
spring's sowing should not be expected to bloom until the second year. Such 
as have been kept in a state of rest since May should now be started if wanted 
for winter blooming. 

Hanging Basket. The latter part of this month, or early next, is a 
go-od time to start one. As the number of plants in a basket is usually large 
for the quantity of soil, it should be rich. What is wanted is rapid, luxuriant 
growth, and for this purpose let leaf- mold predominate. Wire baskets lined 
with moss from the woods give satisfaction if watered properly. Oxalis, Nolana, 
Tradescantia, Kenilworth Ivy, Petunias, Geraniums, Ivies, and many other 
plants do well in baskets. See remarks in September. 

Heliotrope. Stips rooted now should furnish flowers during the winter. 

Herbaceous Plants. — Divide and replant such as require it, so as to 
become well established before cold weather. 

Insects often infest Chrysanthemums at this season, and should be 
quickly exterminated by the use of tobacco. See "Thrips" under " Insects 
and Remedies." 

Ivy Geraniums. — Train them over pyramid frames of wire for fine 
effect. Use an eight or ten inch pot, and after covering the hole in the bottom 
with a flat stone, put a neat stake in the center, fasten a wire around the rim 
of the pot, and bring wires from this to the top of the stake. Put in proper 
drainage and soil, then set three or four plants and train over this framework. 

Lifting. — This cannot be done any too carefully. By running an old 
knife in the ground around each plant a few inches from the main stem, it will 
cut the long roots, and if they are allowed to remain thus for two or three days 
the cuts will have healed and new rootlets formed, so that when lifted and 
potted, the shock will not be as severe as it would if taken right out ot the soil 
and potted with all the broken roots. 

44 



Lobelia. — This is a very pretty flower for the window, especially the 
little blue variety. Take up and pot a few roots as a trial. 

riarguerites should go into pots now, and may be treated same as 
Chrysanthemums. 

Pansies. — For spring flowering, seed should be sown now, or if you 
will carefully examine the bed of past season, you may find any number of 
seedlings. Transplant these in a bed of well enriched and pulverized soil. 
Here they will make a good growth before cold weather. See September. 

Perennials. — Now is a good time to sow seed of hardy perennials in 
some half shaded spot. Transplant in the place intended for growth and bloom 
as soon as large enough to handle. Have the soil mellow and well enriched. 

Petunias are most satisfactory winter plants. Old plants are not as 
good as young ones, because they loose their vitah'ty more or less in summer 
flowering, but if you have no others started, it will pay to lift and carefully pot 
a plant or two, cutting the branches back pretty well. 

Primroses like a cool, faintly shaded cold frame. Keep them close to 
the glass and do not allow them to get too dry. Do not crowd or let them get 
root-bound. 

Propagation. — Such plants as Rex Begonias, Ficus and Clerodendron 
can be started from cuttings now by the amateur, with better success then at 
any other season. 

Roses, if properly grown for winter flowering, will soon begin to show 
their first flower bud.s. Do not force them with too much warmth or stimulant. 
Guard against over- potting. Watering must always be carefully done with 
these plants, because they are very particular, and too much water or drouth is 
likely to prove fatal. The foliage should be moistened freely. 

Smilax. — Sow seed now for next year's plants, first soaking it in warm 
water. See " Hints Upon Sowing." 

Tuberoses. — Sometimes it seems almost impossible in our short season 
at the North to bring this excellent flower into bloom before cold weather ap- 
proaches, and in such cases they may be lifted carefully, so as not to injure the 
roots, and bloomed in the house. 

Veronicas will now be approaching their flowering season, and a little 
stimulant in the shape of weak liquid manure will benefit them. 

Vincas may now be lifted and the roots divided, potting such as are 
wanted for the window and resetting the others for next season's display. 

Violets. — Cut off all runners and confine your plants to nice crowns. 
Young plants propagated by layering, should be tranplanted same as Pansies. 



45 



September. 

Another season of buds and blossoms will soon be numbered among the 
past, and the keen, rough and ragged edges of that mighty sword— Jack Frost 

vvill niake the flowers in the garden look pretty much alike. August, the 

last of the summer months, is gone, and the ripening leaves should be about to 
don their gala dress of gold and crimson before bidding farewell. Nature in 
various ways often speaks words of consolation to the sad and weary hearted. 
The beauty of a sunset sky, the rippling of a brooklet, or the sighing of wind 
in the tree-tops, will oft times calm the troubled mind and induce feelings of 
happiness and delight. With the waning summer heat and the approach of 
autumnal frosts comes the work of completing the preparation of winter plants, 
for if good bloom and healthy foliage are desired, the plants must be put in 
shape for that purpose. 

AgapanthuS. — After blooming cut the flower stalk about half way 
down. Keep the plant growing four or five weeks longer to ripen its bulb, 
crradually withholding water; then remove to a light, cool place free from frost, 
where it may remain until spring. 

AlySSUm is useful for basket or pot culture, and grows freely from seed, 
or may be propagated by cuttings. See Annuals. 

Annuals. — Some that are in good condition, like Pinks, Asters, Mig- 
nonette, Stocks, Sweet Alyssum, Petunias, Pansies, etc., may be lifted and made 
to brighten the windows during the early part of winter when flowers are usu- 
ally scarce. Examine the plants carefully for vermin before removing them, 
and use only the best. Most Annuals are subject to attacks of aphis when in 
doors, and should be looked to frequently. 

Azaleas, as well as other hard wooded plants, should be removed to 
the veranda or otherwise protected from the chills of autumn evenings for a 
few weeks longer. Bring them in before the days become too cool. See 
" Housing Plants." 

Begonias. — The winter flowering varieties should now be in fine con- 
dition for housing during the season close at hand. Tuberous varieties should 
be taken up before they freeze, and the bulbs thoroughly dried off, when they 
can be packed in dry sand or paper bags, and kept in a cool, dry place, free 
from frost until spring. Rex and other large leaved varieties should not have 
too much water at the root, or their leaves will drop. 

Bulbs. Don't delay in preparing the bulb-bed and obtaining the re- 
quired bulbs to be planted. Those that were put away to rest after last win- 
ter's forcing should be planted in a bed now. Pot such of the new bulbs as 
are wanted for forcing, and keep them in a moderately warm, dark place, or 
cover with a board until sprouted. 

46 



Cacti for fall and early winter flowering should have all the sunshine 
possible now. and if growing well, light applications of liquid manure will bene- 
fit them. Those summered in beds or borders should be lifted before fall rains 
come on and removed to dry quarters. 

Callas should now be well established, if they were reported as directed 
last month. Water freely as growth advances, using warm water. 

Caladiums. — Mature growth by gradually reducing the supply of 
moisture as the heat diminishes, preparatory to storing for the winter. 

Calceolarias. — Treat as directed for Cinerarias. 

CannaS. — If proper care has been given, they should now be in their 
glory, and when well grown there are few sub-tropical plants more suitable for 
the adornment of lawn or flower garden. 

Carnations if summered in the border, should now be carefully lifted, 
potted in rich, light soil, and shaded for a few days until established. Those 
grown in pots along with other winter blooming plants should now have their 
last shift if the pots are filled with roots and seem to require it. 

Chrysanthemums grown in pots should receive a final shift early, 
and those in beds should be potted the first thing, so as to get well established 
before housing and cold weather comes on. When growing they should have 
plenty of water, and will be benefited by giving weak liquid manure once or 
twice a week. Stake as required. Dust with tobacco when aphides are trouble- 
some. 

Cinerarias. — Keep them well shaded from the strong rays of sunlight, 
and free from aphides. 

Ferneries. — Re-stock now for winter by the use 
of native plants from the woods and a few plants of Be 
gonias. Low growing evergreen ferns and some prett} 
mosses clinging to the fallen branches of trees, may be 
arranged artistically and with a pleasing effect. 

Fuchsias. — Speciosa and other varieties that have 
been treated to a period of rest during summer, should 
now be well advanced. Such as furnished summer flow- 
ers should be in pots, and the water supply gradually 
reduced preparatory to resting. 

General Reminders.— Obtain a good supply of potting soil, sand, 

moss, pots, etc., before cold weather comes on. Frost can be expected any 
time after the middle of the month, and if tender plants are protected, their 
beauty may be enjoyed in the days of fine warm weather that usually follow. 

Gladiolus should be lifted before the ground freezes hard, and after 
drying awhile, cut off the stalks and store in paper bags in some dry place free 
from frost. The little bulbs usually found about the larger ones may be pre- 

47 




served with the others for planting in the spring; they will become of flower- 
ing size in a year or two. 

Gloxinias that have bloomed during the summer will now need rest. 
Dry them off gradually, lift and store in boxes of dry sand for at least four 
months. Those for winter flowering should be well advanced and kept in a 
moderately warm place. 

Hanging Basket.— Start early this month, and water it thoroughly 
if you want it to do well. A mere sprinkling of the surface will not do. It 
must be borne in mind that a basket suspended in the air is exposed to the 
drying winds and hot atmosphere on all sides, and the moisture is soon licked 
up. When a basket needs water, take it down, set it in a pail of water and let 
it become thoroughly wet, then hang it up to drain. Enough water will be 
retained for the plants needs and no more. 

Heliotrope. — Old plants are often set with buds now, and if lifted 
carefully and potted, will mature the flowers. Cuttings taken in July should 
now be well advanced. 

HerbacioUS Plants are much benefitted by being separated and 
transplanted every two or three years. Large masses do not seem to thrive or 
bloom as well as do medium sized clumps. 

Housing Plants. — In bringing the plants to thei^■ winter quarters in 
the fall, one usually delays as long as the weather is pleasant, until indications 
of a frosty night necessitates removing them for protection. Then the change 
of atmosphere is very sudden, and is almost sure to tell on them more or less 
until they become used to it; but if the plants are brought in a few weeks 
earlier and given a cool place, where plenty of fresh air can be admitted when- 
ever the weather will permit without injury, they will soon adjust themselves 
in their new quarters, gradually becoming accustomed to the change, and barely 
feel the removal. See that the plants are free from insects, and have the pots 
look clean. Pots with a green slimy covering give a very untidy appearance. 

Jerusalem Cherry. — Plants carefully lifted and potted will make a 
good show for several weeks. If grown in pots give a little stimulant. 

Lifting Plants. — A knife run deeply around the plant a few times 
before lifting will prevent its wilting too much, and will often obviate the neces- 
sity of cutting it back. Lifting ?hould be done early this month so that the 
plants may become well established and growing before it is time to house 
them. Those to be wintered in the cellar or pit may remain out longer, but 
should be removed before frost bitten. Lift each plant separately with a spade, 
removing a large ball of earth with it, so as to retain all the roots possible. 
The ball can be reduced with a pointed stick or old fork, to fit the pot, which 
should be in proportion to size of plant. Sometimes a size or two smaller can 
be used, but as to that you can better judge. Always provide good drainage 
and fill in around the ball of earth with rich soil. Jar the pot slightly to settle 

48 




the soil firmly about the roots, and after watering, put them in tlie shade close 
together for six or eight days, then increase the space and h'ght. 

Lilly of the Valley can be had in bloom in the house as easily as 
Hyacinths. Pot some roots, or "pips" as they are called, at intervals of two 
or three weeks apart, so as to have a succession of bloom, beginning toward the 
end of this, or early next month. Leave them out doors to freeze once, then 
bring them in the house and place on the back of kitchen range or on a regis- 
ter. Cover the pots with a funnel-shaped card board until the pipes are started 
about an inch, after which give plenty of light and not too warm a place. 

Oxalis. — Reset in fresh soil and start into growth early this month. It 
makes a fine basket plant. 

Primroses should be under cover on cool nights. Shade from strong 
sunshine and do not over water. 

Protection. — The protecting cloth described in January may be 
brought into good use for covering foliage beds and other plants on those 
frosty nights that often occur in some localities during 
this month, and thus prolong their floral beauty sev- 
eral weeks. A light frame shaped like a small house 
and hinged so as to fold up conveniently, may be cov- 
ered with the cloth. With extension legs and an ad- 
ditional strip of cloth, this little house may be raised or lowered at will, to suit 
the plants protected. It answers admirably as a Chrysanthemum house. 

Protecting Cloth. — The matting which comes around tea chests is 
very convenient for covering plants. This matting is very thickly woven, and 
can be used to advantage on frosty nights. Collect it of your grocer during 
the summer and have it in readiness. 

Roses. — Such as need it may be repotted now. A good soil for them is 
composed of one part loam, and one part well rotted manure and turfy matter 
from beneath the sods of an old pasture. 

Swamp riuck, as found in low places throughout the country, is of 
more value in the flower garden than most people are aware of It is a valua- 
ble manure, being very rich in vegetable matter, and where the circumstances 
are favorable, it will pay to secure a good supply, especially if the garden soil 
it poor. 

Tigridias. — Carefully lift and store them through the winter like Gladi- 
olus, using paper bags, or dry sand in boxes. 

Watering. — As the heat from the sun diminishes, so also should the 
supply of water to plants be reduced, for the action of heat cannot evaporate 
the moisture as rapidly. 



49 



October. 

At this season hill and dale are usually brilliant with the mantle of glory 
that covers them. Beauty and sadness mingle as the days pass, few and short, 
and at best the pleasant farewell of the season of flowers and sunshine are the sad- 
dest of the year. This month marks the beginning of the in door season of growth, 
and an important one in the window gardener's calendar. The window should be 
comfortably stocked with vigorous plants, just ready to open their buds and 
show their hidden beauty. A reserve of bulbs and other plants being kept in 
the cold pit for bringing in during the coming month. It is a favorable time ot 
the year — as long as the weather will permit — for a great variety of garden 
work that is preparatory for another season. The preparation of beds and 
planting of spring blooming bulbs should receive prompt attention, and the 
changing, dividing and resetting of perennials, shrubs and bushes should not be 
overlooked 

AgapanthuS. — Store in a dry, cool place, but free from frost. Water 
sparingly, just enough to keep the soil from becoming dust dry. But little or 
no light is necessary, and a good cellar is just the place. 

Air. — Give plenty at all times. Pure oxygen is life itself, but let it come 
in the room at a safe distance from the plants, so as not to cause a draught or 
blow directly upon them. 

Aspidistra. — Such as have made a rapid growth, and if the pot is full 
of roots, change to a size larger. 

Abutilon. — If in pots and grown for winter use, count them among 
the best plants for the window. Plants which have bloomed during summer in 
the garden may be carefully lifted into small tubs, and wintered like Oleanders 
in the cellar, as little or no flowers could be expected until the latter part of 
winter if brought to the window. 

Azalaes should have light, air, careful watering, and about forty-five 
degrees of heat. 

Before Sweeping the thoughtful amateur will cover all plants with 
newspapers or light cloth, to prevent the dust from settling on the foliage 
and stopping up the pores. 

Begonias. — Flowering varieties may be encouraged by a higher temper- 
ature and plenty of light. See September. Water the Rex or fancy leaved 
sorts moderately, as growth will not be as rapid as it has been, or will be later. 
Varieties ot the Tuberous class should be at rest. See August. 

Browallias. — Give these as light a place as possible and a low temper- 
ature. 

Bulbous Flowers are the easiest grown, and most reliable of all winter 
blooming house plants. They will bloom well for you if they have even half a 
chance, because the flowers in embryo are laid up in the heart of the bulb, and 
only need a little vrarmth, moisture and sun to develop them. 

50 



Cacti. — When a season of growth is about completed, the plants may be 
removed to a dry, airy place until spring. All Phillocacti are benefitted by a 
semi- occasional watering if the soil becomes very dry. 

Caladiums. — Those used as bedding plants should be treated as directed 
for Cannas. 

Callas. — Don't crowd them. Water freely, using quite warm water, and 
if growing vigorously a little stimulant of liquid manure will benefit and in- 
crease the quality of bloom, if the soil is not rich enough. 

Carinas. — After the foliage has been killed by frost the roots should be 
dug up, allowed to dry off, and placed in a box of dry sand, in which manner 
they will winter safely in a frost-proof room. 

Carnations should be in their flowering pots early this month. A four 
inch pot or less, according to the size of plant, will be about right. Use about 
the same soil as for Geraniums, and be careful never to over water, as excessive 
moisture at the roots produces rot. About fifty degrees of heat is proper. 

Chrysanthemums properly cared for during the summer months 
should now brighten the window with a fine display of bloom. Give plenty of 
water and a top dressing of old cow manure, or preferably, applications of liquid 
manure. It will give strength to the plants and increase ths beauty of the 
flowers. 

Cyclamen for winter blooming delight in a light place and an even 
temperature. Such as furnished flowers during the summer and fall should be 
allowed to mature their bulbs by giving less water, and afterward wintered like 
Agapanthus. 

Dahlias. — Dig up the tubers before severe frost comes, and store same 
as potatoes. 

Dasies as winter plants need plenty of air and a moderate amount of 
sunshine and water, with daily sprinkling of foliage to keep down the red spider. 

Farfugium Grande makes a fine attractive specimen when well 
grown. It requires about the same treatment as Geraniums. 

Fernery. — In starting one remember that room should be allowed for 
the plants to grow. A nortii or west window will suit them. 

Flower Beds. — Dig them up deeply this fall, and at the same time 
work in some well rotted manure. Leave the soil in a rough state as ducr, and 
it will be benefitted by the action of the frost and weather. It is not advisable 
to manure flower beds too high, as it is likely to produce a rampant growth of 
foliage and but few flowers. Soil of a stiff, clayey nature can be improved by 
working in considerable sharp sand, swamp muck and leaf mould, to render it 
porous, and the deeper it is worked the better will be the results. 

Forget=M.e=Nots. — If for the window keep them in a cool place where 
it does not freeze, giving air freely until wanted for decoration ; then bring to 
the window and give them the coldest spot, with plent}' of air and light. 

51 



Fuchsias. — The only variety that will give satisfaction as a winter 
bloomer in the ordinary window, is Speciosa. Allow moderate sunshine, and 
moisten the foliage often. There are a few varieties which, if allowed to rest 
during the summer, will blossom fairly well in winter, but whether it pays for 
the trouble is a question for each experimenter to decide. 

Gladiolus. — The bulbs should be stored from frost and damp until 
spring. Little bulblets at the base of old bulbs are termed " spawn," and should 
be preserved the same as large bulbs, when they can be sown in rows like peas, 
in mellow soil. 

Hardy Plants as winter bloomers, such as Lily of the Valley and 
Bleeding Heart (Dicentra Spectabilis), do well in the window. Pot strong 
roots the last of this month, somewhat crowding them. A cool place that will 
not force too rapidly, with plenty of light, is desirable. 

Hedges. — For ornamental boundaries use Norway Spruce, Scotch Pine, 
Chinese and American Arbor Vitae, and for dwarf dividing lines, Chinese Ar- 
bor Vitae. 

Hot=Bed Soil. — This should be made before the ground is frozen and 
thrown in heaps, so as to be ready for use in the spring. Cover with old 
boards, or if convenient store under a shed. 

Hydrangeas. — Remove them to the cellar or pit free from frost, and 
treat same as other plants at rest. 

Insects. — Keep a sharp lookout for them, and exterminate with all pos- 
sible haste. 

Leaves. — Gather them up as they fall from the trees for covering the 
bulb bed as cold weather approaches. Do not burn if you have a place to pile 
them, for if not utilized as a covering they will decay and make a good substi- 
tute for woods- mould where such is not to be obtained. Weigh the leaves 
down with alternate layers of sods, or garden soil. 

Lifting Plants. — All kinds should be lifted before sharp frost, and 
those intended for the window ought to be in their final pots and well estab- 
lished now. 

Lilies. — Now is the best time to plant or reset them. Any garden soil 
that is light and sandy will do, but it should be well drained so that water never 
stands at their roots, especially during the winter. 

Oleanders. — Remove to the cellar for the winter and keep the roots 
dry. 

Petunias should be well established now. Treat about the same as 
Geraniums. 

Primroses. — Give them a light situation, and water once a week with 
liquid fertilizer if the plants are growing and about to bloom. 

52 



Roses, if pot grown, should be in their final pots early this month. If 
grown in the garden, pot in a moderately rich soil of a clay-loom made some- 
what fibrous by the use of rotten sods and sand. Give good drainage, avoid 
draughts and syringe the leaves daily, but do not water too much at the roots. 
They require a moist atmosphere and an even temperature. 

Smooth = Leaved Plants should be washed or sponged frequently, 
and the rough leaved plants delighting in moisture should be sprinkled or 
syringed often. 

Violets need plentj^ of air, a low temperature and moist atmosphere, 
with only a moderate amount of moisture at the roots, in order to be successful. 

^Vatel* Lilies. — If grown in tubs as suggested in April, the water 
should now be drawn off, and the tubs covered with boards and a good coat of 
litter to protect from severe frost. 

Wax Plant should have all the heat possible in its growing season, but 
requires shade of other plants so as not to be exposed to the direct rays of the 
sun. It should have a humid atmosphere, and a dish of water will be of benefit 
if placed near it. Sponge the leaves frequently. In season of rest, it will bear 
to be kept rather dry and moderately cool. 




53 



November. 

All the beauty and brightness of summer, and the golden affluence of 
autumn are gone, fortelling the approach of winter. Both sunlight and heat — 
those important elements to plant life — lessen at this season, and blossoms are 
generally scarce, but the queen of autumn, the Chrysanthemum, should relieve 
the bareness, occupying a place that few other flowers are in condition to fill. 
November may well be termed " The Chrsanthemum Month " as appropriately as 
June "The Month of Roses." The work among flowers now will consist prin- 
cipally in preparing the plants for the window, with a view to securing an 
abundance of bloom later on. 

Amaryllis. — Such as rested during the summer should be in good con- 
dition for making a free growth next month and onward. Allow them a cool 
place now, and do not over-water. 

Astilba Japonica may still be potted and kept in reserve for later use 
in the window. Keep in a light cool place until wanted in the window. Crowd 
the roots pretty well, so as to force a top growth when established. 

Begonia Rubra is as near a constant bloomer as it is possible to have 
any plant. Sponge or wipe off the leaves occasionally to keep them clean. 
Otherwise treat the same as other blooming Begonias. 

Bulbs. — Though rather late, they may be started in pots or glasses dur- 
ing the early part of this month. After potting, remove to a warm dark place 
for two or three days to start the roots, then put them in the cellar until growth 
appears. See September. 

Cacti — A moderately light place will answer if full light is not to spare. 
Withhold water, but not entirely. Such as are resting until Februar)-, may be 
stored in a light, dry cellar. 

Callas. — Water freely to encourage growth, and give ample light. Use 
quite warm water. 

Camellias. — Water moderately, and keep the foliage clean by spong- 
ing. A temperature of about fifty degrees suits them. 

Carnations. — Stake, but don't crowd the leaves into bunches when 
tying up. Water moderately. They should show flower buds now. 

Cleanliness is next to Godliness, and plants that are not kept clean do 
not have that healthy robust appearance which a clean plant does. Pick oft" all 
dead leaves and withered flowers. Syringing the foliage removes the dust and 
opens the pores or breathing apparatus. Stir the soil with an old fork or sharp 
stick to admit air to the roots. 

Cinerarias like considerable pot room and a cool place. 

Cyclamen. — Keep them in a temperature of about fifty degrees and 
near the glass. 

54 



Epiphyllum Truncatum. — If treated to a season of rest during the 
summer, and grown especially for blooming about the holidays, it should now 
be inclined to grow freely, and will need a sunny situation with increased heat. 

Ferneries, or warden cases, should now be well advanced. Admit air 
daily, and although plants usually grown in them are fond of moisture, be care- 
ful not to over- water, for the moisture does not evaporate as rapidly as from 
potted plants exposed to the sum and dry atmosphere of the room. Rex Be- 
gonias do well in the fernery if not wet too freely at the roots. 

General Reminders. — Prepare for approaching cold weather by 
cleaning up all rubbish, dead vines or any overlooked weeds, and burn them. 
It is shiftless gardening to leave hanging- baskets, vases and boxes out all win- 
ter. Let all be tidiness. If the ground is not yet frozen, a good hoeing at 
this time will kill many small weeds that would grow beneath the snow and 
bear seed before they can be removed in the spring. Cuttings inserted last 
month or previous, should be in pots now. 

Geraniums grown for winter bloom should now be making a vigorous 
ous growth. Water regularly, but not unless the soil looks dry. A stimulant 
of weak liquid manure will benefit them if the soil is rather poor. 

Heat. — From forty- five to fifty-five degrees at night, and fifty-five to 
seventy degrees during the day, is about right for the general collection of 
plants. 

Hydrangeas. — Examine them occasionally, as well as all other plants 
in the cellar, and supply just enough water to keep the soil from becoming dust 
dry. 

Insects are usually less troublesome at this season, but they will bear 
scrutinizing carefully, and should be exterminated at the first appearance. 

Ivies. — Lookout for scale. Soap-suds may be applied with an old stiff 
tooth brush, being careful not to bruise the bark of the plants. It may be nec- 
essary first to scrape off the scale with a pen- knife. 

Lemons will not require as much water at this season as in the summer, 
but need all the sunshine and light possible. 

Oleanders. — Examine them occasionally while in the cellar, and apply 
just enough water to keep the soil from becoming dust dry. 

Oranges. — Treat same as lemons. 

Oxalis. — Give all the light and sunshine possible. If in a hanging bas- 
ket and the plants are growing well, remove the basket to the sink once or 
twice a week and water thoroughly. They cannot be watered satisfactorily in 
the window, and this is often why so many fail with baskets. See September. 

Pansy plants are hardy, -but they will sufifer from alternate freezing and 
thawing of the soil, as it heaves the roots. Cover them lightly with straw or 
other coarse litter. 

55 



Protection of some sort is beneficial to nearly all out door plants, even 
those considered hardy. Leaves overlaid with evergreen branches answer the 
purpose well enough. 

Primroses. — Water sparingly and let them have plenty of light. 

Roses. — Those grown in pots dur- 
ing summer especially for winter flower- 
ing, should be given a light, warm place. 
Monthlies that were potted from the gar- 
den may be kept in a cool place until the 
first of next month. 

Shrubs, Vines, Bushes, and 

all half hardy plants in general, should be 
carefully bent down and pegged in posi- 
tion, then covered with litter of some sort. 
Such as are too large or stiff to bend with- 
out breaking, may be wrapped with straw 
or evergreen branches and tied loosely. 

Syringing the foliage of most 
plants is very beneficial. Sponging the 
leaves produces the same effect, and should be attended to every day. Dust 
on the leaves of plants is very injurious and makes them sickly. 

Wallflowers. — Keep in a moderately cool place. Water carefully and 
give plenty of light. Air moderately. 

Water. — Plants that are growing rapidly or in blosson will require more 
than such as are not. 




«^5*;^*<^5<^-* 



56 



December. 

The last month of the calendar year usually brings in its train the spirit of 
that far-away melody sung nearly nineteen hundred years ago ; the peace and 
good will spirit. It is a season when all, or nearly all vegetation is at a stand- 
still and nature is recuperating her expended strength and energies for another 
season of buds, blossoms and fruitage. In the window garden a general exer- 
tion is usually made in favor of Christmas, endeavoring to have as large a qnan- 
tity of flowers in bloom at that time as is possible, and means will allow. By a 
little judicious arrangement of plants, so that all of them may be suited, as con- 
venience will permit regarding a high or low temperature, sunshine or shade, 
quite a number can be provided for that may otherwise find lodgings in the 
cellar. Aim to keep as near an even temperature as possible, and regulate wa- 
tering according to conditions of the plants, for the short days, cloudy and cold 
weather usually prevailing about this time, is trying to window gardening at the 
north. 

Agaratums will now be set with flower buds if potted early, and will 
need freely watering, using liquid manure occasionally. 

Azaleas should be freely aired daily if the weathor will permit. Syringe 
the foliage often. 

Begonias of the flowering section are about as satisfactory house plants 
as any. This is especially true of Gandiflora rosea. They require about the 
same treatment as Geraniums. 

Bulbs. — Those potted early should now show signs of bloom." Give 
light, plenty of air, and if healthy looking, weak applications of liquid manure. 
Hyacinths may yet be started in glasses. Fill with soft water until it just 
reaches the base of the bulb, then put them in a dark, cool place for five or six 
weeks. Small bits of charcoal in the glasses will aid in keeping the water pure. 
Examine occasionally to see how they are getting on, and supply water as it 
evaporates, or is taken up by the roots. Frost should not be allowed to reach 
them. 

Callas should now be making a vigorous growth, and if so, give freely 
of quite warm water. 

Carnations. — Syringe the foliage freely, but do not water too much at 
the roots. 

Ferneries. — Don't keep them too air tight, but lift the cover a trifle 
frequently to ventilate. 

Flower Pits in which plants are stored should be aired on all mild 
days. 

Frosted Plants. — This will sometimes occur even to the most care- 
ful. In such event immediately remove to a cold, darkened room, where the 
temperature can be kept about two degrees above freezing by means of a lighted 

57 



lamp. Spray lightly with cold water, and allow them to remain until the frost 
is entirely drawn out. After this they should be kept in a cool place and away 
from sunshine for several days. 

Fuchsias when growing prefer plenty of root room, to being crowded, 
and should never become pot-bound. 

Future Pans. — Now is the time to consider what plants to grow for 
next summer's garden. Draw a plan of the garden or flower beds, and decide 
upon where this, that and other kind of plants will show to the best advantage, 
and when the season arrives you will know just where everything is to be 
planted, without wasting any time in the arrangement of beds. Don't forget 
to provide a corner for wild flowers. It will become the favorite spot in the 
garden. See April. 

General Reminders.— Air your plants freely on all mild days, but 
avoid drafts. Examine the plants that are wintered in the cellar or pit, occa- 
sionall)^ 

Hanging Basket, to do well, must be taken down and watered thor- 
oughly, as often as required. It cannot be watered properly while suspended. 
See remarks in September. 

India Rubber Plant, or Ficus Elastica, will make a fine specimen 
for the window. It delights in warmth, with an occasional sponging of the 
foliage. 

Insects will bear looking after closely, and exterminating speedily at 
the first appearance. 

Palms delight in having their leaves sponged frequently. 

Plant Forcing. — The forcing of all kinds of plants is unnatural, and 
to keep anything like good health during a term of severe forcing, plants should 
be in a good condition at the beginning. 

Sickly Plants — Inspect the foliage carefully, withholdwater and ex- 
amine the roots to see if they are diseased or troubled with vermin. Never 
force a sickly plant in a high temperature. It takes a plant having the best 
of health and vigor to endure forcing. 

5praying.-An instrument that will 
throw a fine spray is almost indispensible ir. ^T" 'T'^^^™^'^"^^^^-^%f 

in floriculture ; it can be used to keep the ^^ 
air moist, washing the foliage, and apply- 
ing insecticides with pleasing results. Rubber sprinklers are well enough as 
long as they last, but nothing has yet come up to the Fluid Bellows or Vapoi ■ 
izor. 

Violets must have a cool, light place, and moist atmosphere, with plenty 
of fresh air to do well. 



58 




The First Thing 

for You to do Now 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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